-----Original Message-----

Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:39 AM
Subject: Estrela on the move again -- watch us live on www.theheads.co.za as we depart Knysna at approx 7 to 7:15 am local time (5 am GMT and midnight EST) Sunday, February 15, bound for Simons Town Harbor, Cape Town

 

We should sail out Knysna Heads sometime from about 7 am to 7:15 am local time (5 to 5:15 am GMT, and midnight to 12:15 am North American Eastern Standard Time).  We aim to depart just before high slack tide, which is 7:21 am.  Watch www.theheads.co.za to try to catch a glimpse of us on the way out.  It refreshes with a real-time still shot of the narrow pass between the East and West Knysna Heads every 60 seconds. 

 

We hope to sail uneventfully around Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point in Africa, and re-enter the Atlantic Ocean, early evening Monday and dock in Simons Town Tuesday morning.  Simons Town is the historic harbor of the British Navy just east of the Cape of Good Hope

 

It is very sad for all four of us to be saying goodbye to so many wonderful friends here in Knysna.  But Estrela and her crew are finally 100% ready and it’s way past time to be going.

 

-- Doug

 

The Hopkins Family

S/V Estrela

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 3:17 PM
Subject: Estrela tied up 10:50 am at False Bay Yacht Club, Simon's Town Harbor, Cape Town -- escorted in by seals, a whale, seabirds, dolphins, and penguins

 

We exited the Knysna Heads at 7:12 am local time (0512 GMT) Sunday morning, February 15, tears flowing.  And the first eight hours were pretty miserable.  No wind and confused, lumpy seas left half of us pretty seasick.  Kyle had her worst bout ever.  I leave the details to your imagination.  But then the seas became more regular and the wind filled in gradually.  Estrela flew around Cape Agulhas, wing and wing with full main and genoa most of the way.  Our new dinghy-sailing girls hand-steered Estrela for hours.  The wind was moderate, mostly 15 to 20 kts, from dead aft, until we entered False Bay about midnight last night.  Then. unpredicted by the weather gurus, it built quickly to 35 to 45 kts, with gusts of 50 kts, as we rounded Cape Hangklip and entered False Bay.  We were going too fast and had to heave-to, to slow down so we’d reach Simon’s Town in daylight.  Wow, what a place to wake up – dramatic blocky mountains and dry, mostly empty terrain.  Clear green water and noisy, exuberant wildlife.  Don’t you just have to laugh watching penguins and seals?  We made one big mistake on this passage though.  As soon as we rounded Cape Agulhas, the southernmost point in Africa and one of the five great capes of the Southern Ocean, we high-fived and cheered our return to the Atlantic Ocean, nearly five years after saying goodbye to it when the big doors of the first lock closed astern of us in the Panama Canal.  At a celebratory lunch with Knysna friends today at the False Bay Yacht Club, here in Simon’s Town we learned we were actually still in the Indian Ocean.  We don’t enter the Atlantic until we round the Cape of Good Hope, the famous point at the southern tip of the peninsula where we’re now tied up.  Oh well, we’ll have to edit the video of our premature cheers.

 

Love,

 

Doug  

 

The Hopkins Family

S/V Estrela

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2009 3:24 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Thurs, March 12, 2009 (Day 1 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2200 local time Thurs, March 12, 2009 (2000 GMT);  Lat/Lon: 33º51.410'S, 017º47.239'E;  Location: 33 nautical miles (NM) WNW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1670 NM SE of St. Helena;  Course and speed over ground: 300ºT at 5.2 kts;  Wind: SW 7 kts;  Sea: small regular swell;  Sky: 3/8, some foggy patches;  Air temp: 62ºF;  Water temp: 59ºF;  Humidity: 65%;  Current: nil;  Sail/engine combination and tack: motorsailing with engine at 1400 RPM and full main and staysail, close reach on port tack;  Fishing: not;  Last 24 hour run (through 0800): Zero (we just began the passage today);  Forecast: A 2-3 day gale is expected in a wide area within hundreds of miles of the Cape of Good Hope, beginning Sunday or Monday and blowing through Tuesday -- so we are trying to get quickly as far north and west as we can; Thoughts: Because of this forecast we have opted to burn diesel -- to motorsail -- so we can maintain at least 5 knots of speed. 

 

Sailing away from South Africa is very tough for the Estrelans.  We are leaving big, torn chunks of our souls behind.  A half-dozen gentle, slow-moving southern right whales eased our way.  They appeared and swam around us, as a dense fog lifted, one pair within 15 meters.  We had stopped just outside Hout Bay to drift for a half hour to check the engine and make last goodbye phone calls to South African friends.  Right whales were favored by whalers as slow-moving and easy to kill, and because they had natural buoyancy that kept them from sinking even when dead.  To us, the warty-looking "callosities" on their heads -- gnarled, white bony lumps -- and their gentle pace make them seem somehow like humble messengers of peace.  We were very moved to have their brief escort as we began this passage across the Atlantic.

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 2:16 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Friday, March 13, 2009 (Day 2 of passage to St Helena from South Afrca)

 

2130 local time Friday, March 13, 2009 (1930 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 32º49.851'S, 015º41.807'E.  Location: 150 nautical miles (NM) WNW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1540 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 298ºT at 5.4 kts.  Wind: SSW 12-15 kts.  Sea: small regular waves and gentle swell.  Sky: 1/8, bright, nearly full moon.  Air temp: 69ºF.  Water temp: 70ºF.  Humidity: 60%.  Current: nil.  Sail/engine combination and tack: full main, genoa and staysail, broad reach on port tack.  Fishing: not.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 115 NM.  Forecast: still a SE gale forecast for Mon, Tues and Weds; meantime the light northwest wind has slowly backed to west and southwest and increased.  Thoughts: What a gorgeous night at sea; able to stop motorsailing around midday since sails alone could maintain over 5 kts average, on our course to St Helena.

 

 

These first two days at sea have been lovely, and not for the typical reasons that can make a passage a pleasure, like manageable seas, calm tummies, and just the right amount of wind--not too much, not too little.  It is because our two young passengers have blossomed into essential crew members. Even before we cast off, the girls, Eliza 14 and Abigail 10, participated in or took over pre-departure boat projects that are usually Doug's or my jobs.  For the first time, they serviced winches, three of the seven on board.  One of Doug's regular tasks, doing the winches is mechanically complicated.  They are taken apart, cleaned, greased and oiled, and put back together.  Sound easy?  Nope!  But the girls did a great job with them before we left Knysna; the proof is that the winches have been running smoothly.  Newly certified Open Water Diver, Eliza also donned a full wet suit, weight belt, mask, and snorkel and plunged into the cold water to clean the sea-life-encrusted propeller and to check the boat's three zinc anodes.  Abby stayed on the dock as her assistant, handing over tools and making sure Eliza returned to the surface.  The owner of a big sailboat docked nearby watched the girls at work and hired them to clean his weedy waterline. Just two days before we departed Simon's Town, Abigail took over the galley and made a pile of goodies--peanut butter cookies, baking powder biscuits, and nectarine/plum muffins--ready to eat underway.  Finally she's tall enough to reach the stove!  And now that we are on passage, Eliza has taken over the helm during much of the day, eagerly putting into practice the lessons she learned in the Knysna Yacht Club junior sailing program, where she and Abby took dinghy sailing and racing lessons.  Estrela's sails have never been trimmed so attentively.  We had to remind Eliza that we are a cruising boat, not a racing machine!  Besides added speed, the bonus is that Doug and I are getting more rest during the day.  I like it!

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 12:55 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Saturday, March 14, 2009 (Day 3 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2300 local time Saturday, March 14, 2009 (2100 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 31º40.945'S, 013º33.066'E.  Location: 280 nautical miles (NM) NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1420 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 295ºT at 6.6 kts.  Wind: SSE 15-20 kts.  Sea: small regular waves and gentle southerly swell.  Sky: 2/8, bright, big moon.  Air temp: 76ºF.  Water temp: 70ºF.  Humidity: 63%.  Current: nil, as far as we can tell, and because the water is so much (11 degrees Fahrenheit) warmer than it was near Cape Town, we believe we are well west of the cold, north-setting Benguela Current.  Sail/engine combination and tack: broad reach on port tack with full main and 2/3 genoa poled out to starboard to keep it from collapsing as we roll.  Fishing: Caught a small dorado or mahi-mahi about 4:30 pm -- perfect for dinner, fillet pieces pan-fried in olive oil and garlic, and no leftovers.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 120 NM.  Forecast: still a strong SE blow forecast for Mon, Tues and Weds along our path, but now the higher winds are projected to occur further north and closer to us; this is because the small low pressure area which is creating the wind is now forecast to stay further north, on the Namibian coast, instead of sliding south along the South African coast; at least we'll have some fast sailing wind!  Let's see if the forecast changes again over the next couple days.  The movements of these small southern Africa coastal lows are notoriously difficult to predict.  Thoughts: Feeling thankful for the bountiful ocean.

 

With settled, downwind sailing conditions, today was great for Kyle and me to catch up a little on sleep and for all of us to do some reading and enjoy a fantastic fish feast for dinner.  We must be the ideal customers for electronic books.  With two on board now, a Kindle and a Sony Reader, we are able to keep a small library of classics and avoid too many fights for access.  This was the technology we had been hunting for six years ago when we were first getting ready to set sail.  Nothing very user-friendly or affordable existed.  Well it does now and boy has it transformed life on Estrela.  We are already overflowing (or rather sinking) under the weight of too many books for a little boat.  School textbooks, school reference books and workbooks, boat reference books, travel guides, atlases, pleasure reading books, both read and unread, even cookbooks -- they pile up, weigh a lot and require dry space, lots of it.  As the girls have grown and begun reading more books and thicker books we've reached a crisis point.  In port after port we have found ourselves drifting into second-hand book vendors, coming home with stacks of bargains and delusions of stowability, and have soon ended up giving away or mailing home (financially ridiculous, yes we know) just as many books, many still unread.  But now . . . with an electronic book reader, not only are zillions of classics free (well almost . . . we still have to get them off the internet, which incurs download costs unless you have friends who offer you a free connection) but new books don't require any precious stowage space.  Many books still under copyright are also available to download at prices that compete with new paperbacks.  All this is probably old news to most of our land-dwelling friends, at least to those within a few days drive of San Francisco or Seattle, but to us the reality of having a fun-and-easy-to-use electronic library is truly life-changing.  Special thanks go out to you, our gadget-crazy, early-adopter Granddaddy, for these two amazing little machines.

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 4:29 PM
Subject: Finally at sea again

 

Dear Kay, Tony, Roy, and Betsy,

 

We miss you all and so enjoyed reading aloud your loving emails this morning, Kay and Gogs.  Ironically, we usually feel more closely connected to the four of you when we are at sea, alone on a long passage, than when we are in port and surrounded by all the attractions, friends, and distractions of a land life far, far away from New England.

 

We are joyful and relieved to be crossing an ocean again -- finally! -- and to be sailing north.  But we are also pretty disappointed, and we are guessing you probably are too.  We never could have predicted a year ago that we would have had so much trouble leaving Africa.  We have come to realize, and to accept grudgingly, that the long delay in receiving our new batteries, and the vendor's inexcusable treatment of us -- essentially, the company's repeated lies about when and how the batteries would be shipped -- have made it impossible for us to traverse the Caribbean safely before the 2009 hurricane season.  This means we won't be sailing back to the U.S. by June 2009 as we have been planning for so long.  Our incredible experience in southern Africa was much richer because it lasted three months longer than planned.  But the price we are paying, emotional and financial, is that we have to extend our voyage around the world by another year.

 

Had we known in September that the deep-cycle AGM batteries we really wanted (ones essentially identical to our original 2003 batteries and to the replacements we bought in New Zealand in 2005) wouldn't reach us until mid-January, we would have bought an alternative AGM deep-cycle type that were immediately available in South Africa but which had very different dimensions. We would have done some time-consuming and messy but inexpensive surgery on our engine room with saw and fiberglass to make them fit safely.  Instead, we ended up as the proverbial frog in the pot of water on the stove -- we didn't realize until it was too late that we were slowly boiling alive.

 

We are left with a few options.  For example, one would be to sail directly to Trinidad and leave the boat there on the hard, fly back to the U.S., and return late next winter to sail Estrela back, essentially as a delivery.  This would likely end up as a financial disaster and an abandonment of our dream of sailing around the world as a family.  Anyway, after much research and mulling we have finally decided to sail to Brazil and to live there on lentils and beans and rice and do school and start writing our story, and then sail slowly north to arrive in the Caribbean sometime after the end of the 2009 hurricane season.  This would allow us to then make our way through the Caribbean during next winter, arriving in the U.S. by June 2010.

 

The cost of living in Brazil is supposedly even lower than in South Africa, which has itself been quite a bargain, especially now with the strengthened dollar.  We do not anticipate having anywhere near the kind of land life in Brazil that we enjoyed in South Africa, where we incurred many extra expenses by maintaining a car for ten months, doing our long car trip, and buying bikes and a bike rack.  This will be more like our time in Mayotte, where we did only limited land travel, practiced our French (and, ok, ate a lot of baguettes), enjoyed an inexpensive, safe anchorage, and concentrated on the girls' schooling.  In addition to all of these, especially the intensely focused school experience with two full-time teachers, we want to use our time on Estrela in South America to begin figuring out how to tell our story. 

 

As we have consulted with friends and former colleagues and investigated options for our future life in the U.S., we have come to the conclusion that the key to creating great work/career opportunities for us will be how we tell our story.  We do not fit into the normal placement process any more, in almost any field we could imagine working in, whether teaching, environmental advocacy, or even cruising sailboat equipment marketing.  But if we can tell our story in compelling and relevant ways we may be able to open up opportunities where, objectively, none now exist.  The recession, in a counterintuitive way, may afford us an opportunity to take a breath and to better prepare for our re-entry into the U.S.  Right now may not be the best time to be looking for jobs in fields (like private secondary school teaching) where positions are being cut or new hiring frozen.  But a year from now may be different; it's at least hard to imagine it being worse.  Then again, this may be an even bigger economic downturn than we can imagine.

 

We are most sad that we will not begin seeing you regularly again in just a few months, as we have so long anticipated.  We know this must be bitter news for you too.  This is a terrible time economically for you to be thinking about long airplane flights.  But please don't rule out yet the possibility of rendezvous'ing with us somewhere.  Maybe Tobago or another Caribbean island next winter?  Salvador, Brazil in June or July?  Spring Break in Havana? (Can you talk with Nancy Pelosi and President Obama about lifting the Cuba travel restrictions?)  You never know what might be possible. 

 

We love you all so much and hope you understand our dilemma and can forgive us for the disappointment we know we will be causing you through this change in our itinerary.

 

Love, Doug and Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 2:10 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Sunday, March 15, 2009 (Day 4 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2330 local time Sunday, March 15, 2009 (2130 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 30º14.295'S, 011º28.674'E.  Location: 420 nautical miles (NM) NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1280 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 292ºT at 6.0 kts.  Wind: S 19-24 kts.  Sea: increasing S and SW swell; Estrela's motion getting quicker and jerkier.  Sky: 7/8, nearly completely overcast but luminous, backlit by waning gibbous moon.  Air temp: 70ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Water temp: 70ºF.  Humidity: 62%.  Current: still non-existent, as far as we can tell.  Sail/engine combination and tack: broad reach on port tack with staysail and double-reefed main.  Fishing: not.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 135 NM.  Forecast: The projected center of the low has shifted a little in the latest forecast, as has that of the high pressure area which will work with the low to create a pressure "squash zone" (an area where isobars -- or lines of constant atmospheric pressure -- are closer together); this squash zone phenomenon causes higher winds -- the closer the isobars, the higher the wind.  The net result is that we are now forecast to have 25 to 30 kts of wind by this time tomorrow night, and to experience high winds for about three days.  Thoughts: Anticipating the stronger wind and bigger seas definitely raises our anxiety level.  We know that everything aboard will become a little more difficult and uncomfortable as the wind speed rises.  

 

 

Doug's mom asked us several questions in an email she sent regarding yesterday's (Saturday's) log entry.  I'll try to answer them. 

 

1) "How big was the fish?"  We didn't measure the mahi-mahi, but it looked small, only about 2 feet long.  It had the characteristic shimmering yellows and greens that quickly fade as the fish dies. We usually kill fish quickly and (we think) humanely by pouring rubbing alcohol through its gills, but because we had run out, we used cheap rum from Madagascar instead.  It is quite dramatic (and a bit traumatic for the girls and me, to be honest) to see the life of a creature drain out of its body while in your hands. One of us always says a prayer of thanksgiving before Doug cleans a fish.

 

And what a relief not to have to deal with a huge fish this time.  It takes a lot of effort to land, clean, and prepare a fish.  And the bigger the fish, the more strain on the crew.  Remember that this whole time we are still sailing, which means we have to stay on course, look for other ships, maintain radio schedules with other boats, feed the crew, receive weather info, either by fax or email or voice contact all via the SSB (hf) radio, and don't forget -- take our naps!  If we see a huge fish on the line, the first thing we have to do is to try to slow down so that we can pull it in hand over hand on the yo yo.  We troll (or drag) a lure on a 200lb test monofilament handline which is literally just tied around a cleat on the starboard quarter.  While the boat slows, one of the girls, usually Abby, runs around Estrela and gets out all the equipment: gaff, alcohol squirt bottle, gloves, knife, bucket, sometimes whetstone, and, of course, camera.  In Madagascar we caught a yellow fin tuna that we conservatively estimated weighed more than 100 lbs.  Try pulling that in hand over hand.  We had to use our spare halyard and a winch to hoist the beast into the boat.  Five hours later, we had over 20 ziplock bags filled with delicious tuna steaks, and an exhausted crew! We learned our lesson and now use a smaller lure. 

 

2) "Did you eat the whole thing at that one sitting?"  Yes we did.  If it had been bigger we would have either cut the raw leftovers in strips for air drying to make fish jerky, or chunked them for a fish stew cooked right away in the pressure cooker and set aside to reheat the next day.  Sometimes it feels like the ocean is our own personal grocery store.  What should we have for dinner tonight?  Hmmm, not lentils again.  How about fish!  Doug, honey, could you just throw out the line and catch me good one?  Yup, it's pretty much like that!

 

3) "Do you see other boats?"  On very rare occasions have we ever seen other sailing boats at sea, away from the coast.  The biggest exception was when we were part of the SailIndonesia Rally in 2006.  There were 100 boats participating in the four-day Darwin, Australia to Kupang, West Timor passage and we were in sight of one or more sailboats almost the whole way.  Another was our week-long passage from Minerva Reef to Opua, New Zealand when we sailed much of the way in company with four other boats about Estrela's size.  We stayed in touch then via VHF radio, which only has line-of-sight propagation.  On any ocean passage, we stay on the lookout (meaning, do a careful scan of the horizon a minimum of every 15 minutes and regular radar checks during poor visiblity) for big commercial cargo ships and tankers and also fishing boats and the occasional cruise ship.  A highlight was when we were passed within 3 miles by the Queen Elizabeth II in the Indian Ocean.  I actually hailed the iconic ocean liner on the VHF and chatted with the very British crew member on radio watch.  They were headed to India, and we to the Maldives.

 

4) "Do you know anyone else going in the same direction?"  Absolutely!  We know three South African and five French boats that are at sea right now within a few hundred miles of us and each other.  Most of them have kids aboard, too!  We left at different times and from different ports, but are all going to St. Helena, and will be arriving within a week or so of each other. We keep daily SSB radio schedules with two of the South African boats.  The third, on its first big ocean passage, can't get its SSB radio working and is unable to hear or speak with anyone else.  We will be relieved to see them anchored in St Helena.  It will be a mini-reunion for the French boats and Estrela.  We last saw them in the Indian Ocean in 2007.  Meeting up with boats again, sometimes years later, is a huge highlight of life at sea.  That is why we sailors never say goodbye, we just say, "See you down the line," or "The earth is round," or "Until our wakes cross again."

 

5) "Are you likely to see people you know on St. Helena?"  Not local folks, just other sailboat cruisers.  The people of St. Helena are supposed to be friendly, generous, and hospitable. There is no airport at this island.  The only way to get there is by yacht or the mail ship, which comes every three months.   So, they actually enjoy the sailing tourists who arrive.  It will be fun to compare these islanders with the folks of Pitcairn, another isolated British island, where we spent a week in 2004 en route from the Galapagos Islands to the Gambiers.

 

 

If anyone has any questions for us about life at sea, or the places we've been, or anything else, please email your questions directly to us or else to my brother, George -- our generous volunteer Webmaster (thank you George), who can pass them on to us.

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 2:24 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Monday, March 16, 2009 (Day 5 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2130 local time Monday, March 16, 2009 (1930 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 29º14.495'S, 009º22.167'E.  Location: 540 nautical miles (NM) NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1160 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 298ºT at 6.0 kts.  Wind: S-SSE 30-35 kts; highest gust 50 kts.   Sea: getting bigger and occasionally breaking under us; Estrela's motion beginning to get violent.  Sky: 7/8, very overcast but a few stars peaking through.  Air temp: 69ºF outside and 80ºF inside.  Water temp: 70ºF.  Humidity: 62%.  Current: apparently nil.  Sail/engine combination and tack: running on port tack with staysail alone, poled to starboard.  Fishing: not today.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 135 NM (again!).  Forecast: We are now officially in the squash zone and have the big wind and seas to prove it.  We've learned the hard way that wind in reality always seems to end up higher than the grib file forecasts.  So we are not surprised to have wind tonight in the 30's with gusts to the mid-40's.  And given when we left Cape Town for St. Helena, and the large size of the squash zone, there's not a lot we could have done to avoid these conditions, short of turning back or ducking into Saldanha Bay or Port Owen for a few days.   Thoughts: What a difference to have a crew who have been through these conditions before and now know both how to make the best of them and that they won't last forever.  Dinner prep in a bucking bronco of a galley still st**ks, though, per Kyle, even if the meal is instant mashed potatoes and leftover beef stew in the pressure cooker.

 

                    *                         *                           *                              *

 

Well with the wind picking up and the boat motion getting more violent -- lots of waves slamming against the hull, pushing the boat over and then starting an incessant rocking from gunwale to gunwale (side to side) -- the mood of the crew grew more serious by the minute.  "Change the music!!  If I hear another serious solo violin piece in a minor key, I'm going to strangle myself," said I, while strapped into the galley, trying to pour hot water onto the expectant, desiccated potato flakes without scalding myself.  "Eliza, quick, take the iPod and DO SOMETHING!"  Eliza's choice saved crew morale: Eileen Quinn.  Never heard of her?  Neither had we until we became "cruisers" or "yachties".  She writes and sings about this life on the water.  With songs like, "Tomorrow I'll go cruising" (which, she confesses, actually takes years, because the To Do List never seems to get any smaller), "The Hard" (which is about an important aspect of cruising life, fixing your boat "on the hard."  Translated into landlubber-English, "in the boat yard"), "If I Killed the Captain" (need I say more?), and our morale saving song "Three Days Out, Forty-Five Knot Wind Blues."  Just hearing her sing about "tossing up my cookies and my body's one big bruise", "surfing down a wave on a bob-sled ride from hell", and "I swear never again, if I live to tell the tale," made us laugh and think that we weren't doing so badly after all.  Thanks, Eliza!

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 2:01 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Tuesday, March 17, 2009 (Day 6 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2200 local time Tuesday, March 17, 2009 (2000 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 28º01.96'S, 007º15.99'E.  Location: 670 nautical miles (NM) NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 1030 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 314ºT at 5.2 kts.  Wind: SE 28-33 kts. Sea: increasing swell (approximately 3 meters) and some larger breaking waves, from both the SE and the SW.  Sky: 8/8, pitch dark.  Air temp: 69ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Water temp: 70ºF.  Humidity: 57%.  Current: none.  Sail/engine combination and tack: still on a run on port tack with only the staysail, which is held out to starboard by the whisker pole.  Fishing: not today!  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 137 NM.  Forecast: The coastal low centered now north of Luderitz, the Namibian port WNW of us, is teaming up with the South Atlantic high which is at 1035mb (a big, fat one) and slipping to the NE.  The result is thick clouds, high winds, and squally conditions over a large area.  The highest winds now are near Luderitz, where friends on another boat have just arrived in 30 to 40 kts with gusts over 50; we've been talking with them by SSB twice a day.  Thoughts: It's amazing that in a couple days we'll be able to lie back in a dry cockpit again on night watch in just a t-shirt and watch the stars.

 

                        *                      *                       *                      *

 

It seems (knock on wood) that the strongest winds in this gale may be behind us.*  The wind had moderated during the day.  Though we never put up any more sail we enjoyed a few hours of gentler motion.  The wind is back up now, but not as strong as last night.  The seas have really built, though.  Estrela is slewing around a lot, scooping water with alternating gunwales and taking shuddering full body slams every few minutes.  The good news is that we are doing a better job of keeping the salty water outside of the cabin than we have in similar conditions on previous passages.  Nevertheless, a few times blue water has squirted around scuttle (aka porthole) gaskets.  Initially this seemed just because the scuttles' wingnuts hadn't all been screwed down tightly.  So we fixed that oversight.  When it happened again we realized water was also forcing through the little gaps where the two gasket ends meet at the top of the circle -- not a big deal, just something to plan for, as in, get ready to soak up any water that gets in.  We're also now taking numerous waves over both sides, repeatedly turning the cockpit well into a little bathtub.  The gasket on the hatch cover in the cockpit floor isn't quite doing its job, though, resulting in salt water dripping onto the engine.  Hmmmm . . . Guess it'll be time to give the engine a warm soapy sponge bath when we're at anchor in St Helena. 

 

Abby read a book of British history all day and Eliza read Brave New World.  And we all have been studying "Teach Yourself Brazilian Portuguese" language tapes, a gift from our South African friends John and Lynne on s/v Interlude.  It was too bumpy for a normal school day.

 

-- Doug

 

*The winds yes, but not quite the seas.  After finishing this entry but before we could connect with Sailmail to send it off, we were whumped by a freak breaking wave which tossed us way over on our port side.  Things in the cabin that haven't budged for 5 1/2 years went flying.  A trusted drawer shot out and dumped its contents.  Above, the wave spun us up into the wind, back-winded the poled staysail, and stopped us long enough for the towed hydro-generator line to droop down and slip behind the Aries self-steering vane servo-rudder.  It was 12:30 AM.  The girls and I woke when the wave hit; and all wriggled out of our bunks, a little stunned, but keen to help Kyle sort out the mess.  Eliza and Abby did a great job right away of assessing the damage below (surprisingly little) and organizing the cleanup.  When I finally found my pants and shirt and life vest/harness and joined Kyle in the cockpit she was hand-steering Estrela back onto course and getting the sail sorted out, accompanying herself with some colorful mutterings.  I focused on the hydro-line, which got tight as we picked up speed again.  We needed a boathook to push the line below the long, narrow servo-rudder, but the boathook was stowed deep in the forepeak.  One of the dinghy oars, lashed on deck, did the trick, though it seemed to take forever because it slipped off the taut line so many times as I shoved down against it.  The Aries is very tough though, and because it has an aluminum break-away coupling in the stainless steel servo-rudder shaft I knew the hydro line couldn't cause any permanent damage. But if the coupling had snapped we would have had quite a few miles of hand-steering ahead of us en route to St Helena, the first place we could comfortably repair it.  All's back to normal now; the girls and Kyle are sleeping and I'm standing watch.

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 10:17 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Wednesday, March 18, 2009 (Day 6 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2200 local time Tuesday, March 18, 2009 (2000 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 26º39.97'S, 005º40.83'E.  Location: 800 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 900 NM SE of St. Helena (we'll pass the 1/2 mark tomorrow!).  Course and speed over ground: 309ºT at 5.8 kts.  Wind: SE 22-28 kts. Sea: manageable, though still awkward below, with competing SE and SW swell/wave, some very large (3+ meters?) .  Sky: 5/8, many blue patches today and stars peeking out tonight.  Air temp: 70ºF outside and 79ºF inside.  Water temp: 72ºF.  Humidity: 60%.  Current: still none.  Sail/engine combination and tack: still on a run, port tack, with double-reefed main and poled out staysail.  Fishing: not.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 119 NM.  Forecast: Winds and seas to diminish (very) gradually over next 36 hours, settling in at about 10-15 knots.  Basically no change in the forecast.  Thoughts: This gale has been uncomfortable, like any gale is in a small boat.  But we could still function, and (mostly) kept our senses of humor.  

 

                   *                          *                          *                          *

 

Ola! O meu nome e Eliza.  (Hello!  My name is Eliza.)  We're learning Portuguese, so we can be ready for Brazil.  At first we were slightly annoyed with history.  Why should Brazil have been Portuguese when the whole rest of the continent speaks Spanish?  But listening to the dialogues on our Teach Yourself Brazilian Portuguese tape, to the strange cadences and exotic sounds, so different from the ones of American English, I can't help but feel excited and eager to learn, learn, learn.  It's a new language for me, and one that's spoken in only a few countries.  Thankfully, it won't be like trying to learn Indonesian or Thai.  Portuguese is a Romance language.  I'm glad Abby and I are already studying Latin and French; they're helping us a lot.  Many of the words are very close to Spanish, too, so our small Spanish vocabulary will come in handy, for the first time since we were in the Galapagos Islands (part of Ecuador).   As our Portuguese curriculum we will use the BrazilianPodClass podcasts (downloaded for free through the iTunes Store!) in addition to the excellent Teach Yourself Brazilian Portuguese tape and book.

 

Today Dad and I looked at charts of Rio de Janeiro.  The harbor there looks like a wonderful place to arrive by sailboat after a long passage, with phenomenal natural beauty, including dramatic lush, rocky mountains.  We are as yet undecided about where to arrive in Brazil, though, because the strong, south-setting Brazilian Current and prevailing winds make it a slow and uncomfortable sail back north once one is in Rio.  Dad said it would be like sailing from Sydney to Brisbane, Australia.  The sail north from Salvador, another big city farther up the coast from Rio, would be a bit easier.  I'm still busy doing the most basic things, like memorizing the coastline and its cities and learning Portuguese salutations.  And we're already nearly a fourth of the way across the Atlantic to Brazil!  We have so much to work on.  But for now, boa noite (goodnight).

 

-- Eliza

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 6:20 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Thursday, March 19, 2009 (Day 7 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2100 local time Thursday, March 19, 2009 (2000 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 25º24.3'S, 003º59.2'E.  Location: 920 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 780 NM SE of St. Helena (we passed 1/2 way today and turned our "local time" watches back one hour to GMT+1; first light has been arriving later and later in the morning, so it seemed time to change our clocks.  Course and speed over ground: 315ºT at 5.0 kts.  Wind: SE 15 to 20 kts. Sea: This is more like it -- seas diminished and not quite as confused.  Sky: 4/8, lots of sun today, though still getting occasional light rain tonight.  Air temp: 71ºF outside and 80ºF inside.  Barometer: 1021mb.  Water temp: 71ºF.  Humidity: 57%.  Current: Nil.  Sail/engine combination and tack: still on a run, starboard tack wing-and-wing, with single-reefed main and poled out staysail.  Fishing: Skunked, despite trolling all afternoon.  Last 24 hour run (through 0730): 126 NM.  Forecast: Several days of SE winds 10-15 kts and modest seas ahead.  Thoughts: These mild, settled conditions are what this passage to St. Helena is known for; it's supposed to be one of the most pleasant legs of any circumnavigation that goes south around Africa.

 

                    *                   *                   *                    *                  *

 

I have the coziest and the craziest place to sleep on Estrela.  It's on top of the ditch or grab bags under the dinette table.  These are the bags of gear and food we keep packed and all ready to take with us if we have to go suddenly into the liferaft.  My head is pointing aft or toward the stern (back of the boat) and my feet toward the bow (front of the boat).  Dad and I put one of the dinette seat cushions on top of the ditch bags so that the bed would be more comfortable.  The space is only one foot two inches high, three feet five inches long, and one foot eight inches wide.  We've even velcro'ed a reading light to the underside of the table and I've stuck a few pictures up there too, to make it more homey.  I can lie in my little sanctuary all day reading books for school and pleasure books.  The only hard part is when I have to squirm out to go to the head (bathroom) or to eat.  I'm not allowed to eat in my nest.

 

You may be wondering why I'm sleeping under the table.  Well the reasons are, 1) the forepeak, where Eliza and I sleep when we're not at sea, is full of stuff that cannot be stowed in the main cabin when we are on a long sailing passage; 2) I can't sleep with Eliza toe-to-toe on her bunk, where we used to sleep when we were just starting our trip, because we've both grown; 3) I can't sleep on the floor because it gets wet when we are in rough seas and plus I roll around too much there because I can't brace myself; and 4) I can't sleep with Mom or Dad toe-to-toe in their sea berth because I'm too wiggly and none of us gets a decent sleep.  So that just leaves under the table.  Well, I've always loved cozy, small spaces!

 

-- Abigail C.

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 2:55 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Friday, March 20, 2009 (Day 8 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2200 local time Friday, March 20, 2009 (2100 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 23º57.6'S, 002º19.9'E.  Location: 1040 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 660 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 319ºT at 4.6 kts.  Wind: ESE 12 to 16 kts. Sea: gentle, regular waves and swell.  Sky: 7/8 overcast and light rain, though had plenty of sun today.  Air temp: 72ºF outside and 80ºF inside.  Barometer: 1020mb.  Water temp: 72.5ºF.  Humidity: 58%.  Current: Nil.  Sail/engine combination and tack: broad reach, starboard tack, with single-reefed main and staysail poled to port to prevent slatting.  Fishing: No luck; trolled three hours around midday.  Last 24 hour run (through 0630 [0530GMT]): 117 NM.  Forecast: Light winds (<15kts) and seas.  Thoughts: With the motion really calming down today it struck us (duuhhh . . . you're probably saying) how much exercise we've been getting, adjusting constantly to keep one's balance, during the rough conditions we've just been through.

 

                      *                        *                         *                        *

Just a few memories from today:

 

-- Eliza and Abby both "apprenticed" night watch last night.  Eliza stayed up with Doug for the 0200-0430 watch and marveled at his voluminous chocolate consumption. "It's to keep me going," explains the Captain.  Abby got up for dawn watch with me and as the sky started to brighten, we went on a flying-fish hunt on deck: four fish and one tiny squid.  Too bad we don't have a cat aboard.

 

-- We celebrated a belated St. Patrick's Day.  We organized a "virtual" party with my mom, who, even though half Irish, also missed St. Paddy's Day this year.  At 1600 GMT the party began on both sides of the Atlantic.  My Mom was to eat a green brunch of green oatmeal, green mashed potatoes,and green tea.  My brilliant idea of making green popcorn wasn't so brilliant.  I should have listened to Eliza, "Mom, it won't work.  You can't mix water-based food coloring with oil."  True.  Ok, so we had green splotches on our kernels and very green tongues by the end of the party.  That counts!

 

-- Opening session of the Estrela Offshore Sailing School's course: Plotting a Course on the Paper Chart 101 with Captain Doug. Excellent attendance.  Captivated student body. Perfect execution.  

 

-- The First Mate was thankful for the improved conditions.  Her "lake of patience and tranquility", which had drained early to the muddy bottom, was starting to be replenished.  (The crew is thankful as well!)

 

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 4:05 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Saturday, March 21, 2009 (Day 9 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2200 local time Saturday, March 21, 2009 (2100 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 22º47.3'S, 001º07.1'E.  Location: 1140 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 560 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 314ºT at 3.6 kts.  Wind: SE 9 to 12 kts.  Sea: gentle, but slightly irregular, waves and swell.  Sky: 6/8 overcast but no rain for a couple hours, a few stars peaking out; the shrinking moon has meant darker and darker nights.  Air temp: 73ºF outside and 88ºF inside.  Barometer: 1021mb.  Water temp: 74ºF.  Humidity: 53%.  Current: The fact we maintained at least 3kts even when the wind died to below 10 kts for a while this afternoon suggests we might be getting some sort of boost from a current.  But since we do not have a speed log (which measures speed through the water) and so instead rely on a GPS, which can give only speed over the ground, it's difficult to tell for sure if we are being affected by a current.  Sail/engine combination and tack: broad reach, starboard tack, with single-reefed main and staysail poled to port to prevent slatting.  Fishing: Shut-out again; trolled about six hours.  Last 24 hour run (through 0630 [0530GMT]): 113 NM.  Forecast: We're into the tradewinds finally and can expect SE 10-15 from here to St Helena and most of the way onward to Brazil.  Thoughts: Estrela feels like a new boat this passage because the girls have begun to carry a big load, namely, standing watches, including Eliza alone at night, and preparing lunch for the family every day and baking.  These changes have been incredibly exciting for Kyle and Doug; as a result we're more rested (and look younger, even!).  

 

 

                  *                           *                              *                             *

 

Last night I did my first solo night watch!!!!!!!!  And tonight I have my second.  Now I really feel like a (useful) part of the crew, giving Mom and Dad a few extra hours of coveted sleep.  My watch is from 0200 to 0430, so now the nighttime watch schedule looks like this (in local time):

 

2000 to 2230 -- Doug on watch; Kyle, Eliza, and Abby asleep

2230 to 2300 -- change watch

2300 to 0130 -- Kyle on watch; Doug, Eliza, and Abby asleep

0130 to 0200 -- change watch

0200 to 0430 -- ELIZA on watch (!!!!!); Kyle, Doug and Abby asleep

0430 to 0500 -- change watch

0500 to 0730 -- Kyle on watch with Abby as apprentice; Doug and Eliza asleep

 

I know it looks sort of unfair to Mom because she has two of the four watches, but it all works out because she usually has a longer nap during the day.  And anyway, it's the same schedule as before; I just took one of Dad's watches so he could be able to face any problems that might come up with more brain power and attention since he wouldn't be as utterly exhausted as he normally is on a passage.  I like that watch, too.

 

Two nights ago I did an apprentice watch with Dad.  Basically I was on watch, but he was there to be a consultant and teacher.  All we did, though, was track down and lubricate a few squeaky blocks, make a log entry, scan the dark horizon for ship lights, and munch on chocolate.  I was actually quite shocked by how much chocolate Dad consumed during just one two and a half hour watch: possibly as much as half a Cadbury slab.  Oh, and we read.  But that was it.  The key to standing a good watch is simple: STAY AWAKE.  And do anything you can to stay awake, even if it does mean eating all of the sugary things on board.  (Once Dad ate the rest of Abby's birthday cake on watch.  But it wasn't really a bilateral agreement . . . "Dad, what have you done?!?")

 

Last night was so dark, the sky almost completely overcast, the stars covered by low, black clouds.  Thankfully it didn't rain while I was up, though.  I read my book mostly, an historical fiction about Alfred the Great, "The Last Kingdom" (we're studying medieval history).  Every fifteen minutes I dutifully clipped in with two tethers before going into the cockpit to stare into the blackness, searching for that place where the blue horizon is in the daytime, feeling the weight of the responsibility of being the only awake crewmember and the sole protector of Estrela, feeling the gravity of it pressing on my skull.  Night watch, I find, is a time for profound thoughts, a time for wondering what the real meaning of life is and are we alone in the universe and what would I do if I saw another ship and do I think it's worth the trouble to make myself another cup of cocoa.  Partly it's because the darkness and solitude have a strong effect on us diurnal, social beings, and partly it's because you're so dreamy and exhausted that your mind wanders all over the place (ok, at least mine does).  Anyway, I was so afraid of getting something wrong on my first watch, and that Mom and Dad wouldn't let me do my watch anymore.  But I made it!  Abby made a batch of muffins to celebrate the breakthrough while she was on the dawn watch with Mom.  Abby's baking creations are always the best, and the muffins were delicious.  This afternoon she even made frosting to put on them.  Mom NEVER makes frosting.

 

I still can't believe it.  I'VE DONE MY OWN NIGHT WATCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

-- Eliza the crewmember

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 2:48 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Sunday, March 22, 2009 (Day 10 of passage to St Helena from South Africa) -- Exactly on the Prime Meridian!!

 

2046 local time Sunday, March 22, 2009 (1946 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 21º43.822'S, 000º00.0'E (the Prime Meridian!).  Location: 1230 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 470 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 315ºT at 4.0 kts.  Wind: SE 10 to 15 kts.  Sea: gentle, regular wind waves and swell.  Sky: 2/8 stars, stars, stars -- Southern Cross dead aft and Orion directly ahead and above.  Air temp: 73ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Barometer: 1021mb.  Water temp: 74ºF (recorded as high as 76ºF earlier today).  Humidity: 57%.  Current: None detected or deduced.  Sail/engine combination and tack: run, starboard tack, with single-reefed main and staysail poled wing and wing to starboard.  Fishing: Nothing, probably because we were dragging the lure too close behind Estrela; we had it only about five meters back because we didn't want any hooked fish to become entangled with the hydro generator line.  We were towing the fishing and hydro lines from opposite sides of the cockpit.  Last 24 hour run (through 0630 [0530GMT]): 94 NM.  Forecast: Tradewinds, SE 8-15 kts, possibly blowing a little stronger the next two days (compared to today) and then dropping back down again on the 25th and 26th.  Thoughts: We sailed Estrela across the International Date Line into the Eastern Hemisphere on November 15, 2004 -- four years, four months, and one week ago.  Now we're back in the Western Hemisphere!  In a day or so we will change watches and clocks back another hour so that our local time will be GMT/UTC.

 

                   *                        *                        *                       *

 

Yaaayyyyy!  We had a Prime Meridian crossing party tonight after dinner.  The girls and I danced on the cockpit seats, holding onto the dodger frame for balance, while Kyle stood at the nav table below, spinning disks (changing songs on the iPod) of our favorite Bluegrass and Latin music, and shouting out the diminishing number of minutes of East Longitude, until the BIG MOMENT (which I caught on the camera), when we passed 000º00.0'E, at exactly 7:46:10 PM GMT.  Then the girls began tearing open a box of goodies -- a taped-up plastic ice cream carton marked "St. Helena Party Pack."  Our Knysna friends John and Lynne Coates on S/V Interlude had given us the box just before we left, with instructions to open it at the Prime Meridian.  Well we opened and sampled heavily its contents, four large bags of candy -- containing chocolate malt balls, skittles, these sort of flat gumdrop squares, and the consensus favorite, caramel-covered popcorn.

 

The weird end to the evening was not the part when everyone began moaning sheepishly of stomach aches from too much candy. It was when Abigail emerged from brushing her teeth in the head complaining of a hurty tooth and asked me to look at it; so I grabbed the brightest flashlght and had her open wide.  Well by gum if I didn't find a large cavity in one of her baby teeth molars, an obvious hole.  Abby was pretty upset by the news and we talked over options.  Getting it filled in St. Helena (there's got to be a dentist there!) seems the best plan.  This discovery does not come at a good time.  The big slug of Prime Meridian sweets seemed to trigger Abby's tooth pain; so the obvious idea is to avoid candy and sweets until the cavity has been drilled out and filled.  Well Abby's birthday is in four days, March 26th.  She's been working for weeks, no kidding, to decide on the best recipe for birthday cake and frosting, knowing there was a very good chance she'd be spending it at sea.  Now she faces the prospect of no cake and no more candy until she gets her cavity filled.  Hmmmm . . . Does not compute . . .

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:07 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Monday, March 23, 2009 (Day 11 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2030 local time Monday, March 23, 2009 (1930 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 20º22.482'S, 001º21.134'W.   Location: 1340 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 360 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 317ºT at 5.6 kts.  Wind: SE 15 to 20 kts.  Sea: bigger than last night, Estrela occasionally rolling gunwale to gunwale again.  Sky: 3/8 -- clouds all around on the horizon, but stars bright overhead.  Air temp: 72ºF outside and 79ºF inside.  Barometer: 1018 mb.  Water temp: 75.5ºF .  Humidity: 57%.  Current: Nil.  Sail/engine combination and tack: unchanged since last night; on a dead run, starboard tack, with single-reefed main and staysail poled wing and wing to starboard.  Fishing: Not.  Last 24 hour run (through 0630 [0530GMT]): 104 NM.  Forecast: SE 15 to 20 through tomorrow and then the wind easing slightly by the 25th.  Thoughts: Estrela and crew have found our groove.

 

                    *                             *                            *                          *

 

This was the kind of day at sea that becomes memorable because it wasn't memorable.  It becomes part of the lore of our journey, "remember those pleasant days crossing the South Atlantic?  We didn't change the sail combination for days.  And the tiller...what is that?  Just cooking and napping and talking on the radio and reading and getting weather reports and schooling and loving."  When thinking about what to write about today, I kept hearing the phrase, "the living is easy" dancing in my head.  So here goes, with apologies to the Gershwins.

 

(sung to the tune of Summertime)

 

Tradewind run --

And the living is easy.

Flying fish are jumping,

And the waves are not high.

Your Dad's got out tools,

And you mama is napping.

So hush little girlies,

Get back to school.

 

One of these evenings --

You might touch the tiller.

Then you'll gybe the sails,

And look up to the sky.

Not a ship in sight,

Just the Orion above you.

So hush little girlies,

Kissing you goodnight.

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 3:56 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Tuesday, March 24, 2009 (Day 13 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2100 local time Tuesday, March 24, 2009 (2100 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 18º57.978'S, 002º44.576'W.   Location: 1455 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 245 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 316ºT at 4.6 kts.  Wind: SE 10 to 15 kts.  Sea: small, regular wind waves and long, gentle southerly swell.  Sky: 1/8 -- clear, dark sky; the entire big dipper is visible low on the northern horizon -- haven't seen that sight at sea in a long time!  When do we first see Polaris (the North Star) again?  We can't remember.   Air temp: 74ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Barometer: 1016mb.  Water temp: 75.5ºF .  Humidity: 62%.  Current: Unknown.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Running on starboard tack, with single-reefed main and staysail poled wing and wing to starboard; about to start motorsailing for approximately four hours (@1000 RPM) to charge batteries.  Fishing: Not; it's tough to troll while towing our hydro-generator propeller line.  Last 24 hour run (through 0530 local time [0530 GMT*  *We moved clocks back another hour and are now observing GMT as local time]): 117 NM.  Forecast: SE 10 to 15 for next few days.  Thoughts: Expecting to celebrate Abby's birthday at sea on Thursday (she's getting very excited) and to reach St. Helena on Friday March 27. [Note: We just noticed that we'd accidentally marked two consecutive log entries as "Day 6" of the passage; today's log entry's jump to Day 13 from Day 11 should help correct the mistake.  Our apologies for any confusion we've caused.]

 

                    *                          *                          *                        *

 

I saw it in the middle of my watch last night, this morning rather.  It was at about 0315 and, again, the sky was black with clouds.  I was standing just outside the companionway with my back pressed against the edge of the dodger, gazing, almost bored, at the dull, barely visible horizon.  Then I saw it.  A light to starboard, shining in the darkness.  Another ship.  An icy iron hand snatched at my heart and mashed it in its fist, then pulled the mangled remains through the bottom of my stomach.  My mind froze and I felt empty.  I stared in disbelief at the light.  We hadn't seen a ship in days.  Was it Venus?  I'd heard so many stories of Mom and Dad mistaking the bright glow of Venus for a ship on the horizon.  I glanced around.  No, Venus was already overhead, so the light was a ship.  With a forced calm, I finished my look-around, in case there were any other ships traveling in convoy with this one, and then ran to wake up Dad.

 

The first thing we did was to turn on the radar and the computer, and while they were booting up, Dad showed me how to take a bearing on the light with the hand bearing compass so we could check if its angle to us changed over time (meaning it would pass safely ahead or behind us) or stayed the same (meaning we're on a collision course).  Thankfully it began to change after a few minutes.  He also told me how to read the ship's navigation lights to see which direction the ship was traveling.  Before we'd even looked at the electronics we had a pretty good idea that the ship was heading about the same direction as Estrela, about parallel to us, so we weren't going to run into each other.  We were safe.  The AIS image and data on the computer and the radar blips just confirmed that, but with the comfortable reassurance only a picture on a screen can give. 

 

AIS is a system of identification used by ships, mostly tankers and cargo ships, to "see" each other so they don't crash.  Every ship with an AIS transponder sends out a special VHF radio signal that tells any other ship with an AIS receiver its position, course, speed, the ship's dimensions, its name and radio call sign, and some other things.  We can't transmit a signal because we don't have a transponder, just a small receiver, which is a bit bigger than a single cassette tape box.  But we can receive the signals given by other ships.  Our receiver then sends the information to our computer.  Our computer calculates the closest we will get to the other ship unless one of us changes course, and the time remaining until that closest point is reached.  It is truly a wonderful thing, AIS, and if the computer is on, we often see we are picking up signals from ships when they are twenty or thirty miles away, and sometimes as many as a hundred miles. [* I asked Dad for help editing this paragraph explaining AIS.]

 

"Our" ship was only ten miles away, but that was close enough.  As it slid by us, Dad reminded me again what the routine was if a ship was spotted.  First you turn on the radar and AIS, and while they're turning on, you take a bearing on the ship and another one in five minutes to tell roughly where it's headed.  Then try to puzzle out the lights.  And then watch the radar to find the ship's distance from you and the direction it's traveling.  Finally, use AIS to confirm all of these estimates, and hopefully they all match up.  If not, well, do it all over again!  But in the first place, keep a sharp look-out, looking around every fifteen minutes, so you can spot a ship early before it's too late to do anything.

 

This was certainly a learning experience for me, and I don't think I'll forget to scramble up the companionway ladder to scan the horizon every fifteen minutes when my watch beeps.  I don't think I'll forget the icy leap of my heart or the sudden rush of adrenaline when seeing those ship lights, either.

 

-- Eliza, ship-spotter

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 7:43 AM

Subject: 2nd CORRECTED VERSION: Estrela Log Entry -- Wednesday, March 25, 2009 (Day 14 of passage to St Helena from South Africa)

 

2100 local time Wednesday, March 25, 2009 (2100 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 17º39.245'S, 003º54.006'W.   Location: 1560 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 140 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 314ºT at 5.0 kts.  Wind: SE 13 to 18 kts.  Sea: gentle southerly swell.  Sky: 2/8 -- Milky Way a brightly lit road extending south to north directly overhead.  Air temp: 75ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Barometer: 1016mb.  Water temp: 77ºF .  Humidity: 63%.  Current: We'd like to think there is none, and that our speed over the ground is all Estrela.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Dead run, wing and wing with full main on starboard tack and staysail poled to starboard.  Fishing: Tried for about six hours with no luck, despite having pulled in the hydro-generator propeller, which allowed us to let out a proper amount of fishing line.  Last 24 hour run (through 0530 local time [0530 GMT]): 104 NM.  Forecast: continued SE trades, 10 to 15 kts, for the foreseeable future.  Thoughts: We were all feeling down at dinner this evening, sitting and talking together in the cockpit.  We'd received word by email that a good friend on a boat we had cruised with in Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand in 2006 was killed yesterday.  He and his wife had always treated Eliza and Abigail with special kindness and were among the warmest and most generous sailors we've met anywhere.  The world is poorer for having lost Malcolm well before his time.  Our prayers and thoughts go out to Lindy tonight.

 

                    *                          *                          *                        *

 

After breakfast this morning we lay around the cockpit enjoying Estrela's gentle, steady progress and reading aloud from Patrick O'Brian's historical sea novel, Fortune of War.  For those of you who have never read the O'Brian stories about Captain Jack Aubrey and his best friend, ship's surgeon, naturalist and spy, Dr. Stephen Maturin, you are really missing out.  The action-packed film, Master and Commander, captured well the great story-telling and characters, but only a fraction of O'Brian's opus, which traces the British Navy careers of these men over several decades during the early nineteenth century.  The Aubrey/Maturin novels number seventeen in all, of which Fortune of War is number six.  It has been a special thrill to read these over the last couple years because the last three all are set for the most part in and around the Indian Ocean and South Atlantic. 

 

This morning we read of Aubrey and Maturin making virtually the same passage as we're on now, setting out from Simon's Town and sailing around the Cape of Good Hope, and heading north and then west around the South Atlantic High and over to Brazil, where they ran into trouble.  When their ship caught fire they took to an eighteen foot boat, nearly died of thirst, and were rescued by another British warship, the ill-fated Java, which was bound for Simon's Town en route to India to deliver the New British Governor of Bombay.  A few days after Christmas, 1812, off the coast of Brazil, Java encountered and gave chase to an unknown foreign warship.  Upon closing they discovered their quarry was none other than the USS Constitution, later nicknamed "Old Ironsides" in part based on her success in escaping damage from British cannon balls fired by the Java in the ensuing engagement.  This was a famous event of the War of 1812, though one that had little real military significance.

 

In 1828 the USS Constitution was nearly dismantled by the US Navy as too old and unseaworthy, but her life was spared by one Oliver Wendell Holmes, Sr., father of the famous jurist and himself a Harvard physician and poet.  His popular poem, "Old Ironsides" (which we found aboard Estrela and read at lunch), was a key element of the campaign Holmes led to spare the Constitution and have her restored as an important piece of American history.  This began her second career as a living museum.  During the early 1930's, after a four-year refit, she called at 90 US ports and ended in Boston, where she had been launched in 1797.  As any New Englander and plenty of other tourists know, Old Ironsides is alive and well today, still berthed in Boston Harbor, open to visitors, and fascinating to explore.

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 3:11 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Thursday, March 26, 2009 (Day 15 of passage to St Helena from South Afrca)

 

2130 local time Thursday, March 26, 2009 (2130 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 16º19.700'S, 005º03.508'W.   Location: 1660 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa and 40 NM SE of St. Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 353ºT at 1.0 kts.  Wind: SE 13 to 17 kts.  Sea: slight but awkwardly irregular.  Sky: 3/8, Many stars AND clouds.  Air temp: 77ºF outside and 82ºF inside.  Barometer: 1016mb.  Water temp: 77.5ºF .  Humidity: 62%.  Current: Probably none.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Heaved to, staysail only, starboard tack, staysail sheeted tight to windward.  Lying starboard beam to wind and seas.  Fishing: No luck; tried again this morning; except that the largest flying fish we've ever seen (about a foot long and thick around the middle) leapt aboard about 11:30 pm last night and flopped like crazy until Doug finally grabbed it and tossed it back into the water. Last 24 hour run (through 0530 local time [0530 GMT]): 103 NM.  Forecast: continued SE trades, about 15 kts.  Thoughts:  When we raised our South African friends aboard Margaret Anne on the VHF this afternoon -- Wayne, Tracy and their daughter Shinee  -- it seemed so improbable.  We'd been trying them a couple times a day on the VHF, just as a long shot.  They had to be out here somewhere . . .  Well this time they heard us, just barely through all the noise or interference.  But it was unmistakably the unflappable Wayne.  We learned that they had left from Hout Bay two days before we left from Simon's Town.  In Wayne's scratchy words on the VHF, we are "the only living things [they've] been able to speak with in two weeks."  Their SSB doesn't work and they also haven't been within VHF range with anyone else since they left.   He reported they weathered the same gale we did, and ended up having to heave to for 36 hours when they couldn't get their self-steering unit to keep them on course.  We can't wait to whoop and holler with them at St. Helena.  This is their first offshore passage, the beginning of their sailing circumnavigation. 

 

 

               *                            *                               *                             *

 

Happy 11th Birthday, Abigail!

 

The Big Day started early, with the opening of the First Present, which, according to strict instructions, was to have been placed at the foot of Abby's bed during the night so that she could wake up with a prezzie at her feet.  Well, she doesn't have a bed, as you all know, so I put her First Present on the table, next to her life jacket and The Birthday Helm, a plastic Viking helmet from the Sydney Maritime Museum, which the birthday celebrator must wear as often as possible on The Big Day.  Now choosing the First Present is a little daunting for the parents; it can't be The Big One, that is always for later, yet it can't be too small, like a key chain -- collecting key chains, by the way, is Abby's hobby.  It must be fun so that she can play with it as much as she likes and so that she can revel in the fact that she is playing and not doing school on The Big Day.  This year a two-and-a-half-inch high Emperor Penguin figurine won the coveted position of First Present.  Thoroughly thrilled with her First Present (phew!), Abby quickly got out her other, smaller penguin figurines and spent the next half-hour or so playing with them while I prepared breakfast.

 

The Galley Chef begged for a rain-check on the proposed Birthday Breakfast menu of sauteed onions, omelettes and bannock, because of Estrela's incessant rocking back and forth.  Granted.  So we had the usual, muesli with homemade yogurt and canned fruit for the parents, and dinner left-over's for the kids.  So Abigail's 11-year old Birthday Breakfast consisted of cold rice and barley with many splashes of Tabasco.  She loves her food spicy. 

 

Then the Captain announced that it was his prerogative to attack and wrestle the Birthday Girl on his command.  Surprise ambushes, sneaky tickles, and paper airplane bombings were all part of the Get-The-Birthday-Girl Campaign.  I started making the cake in the DMZ while the fighting ensued.  Meanwhile, Eliza was still sleeping in her bunk.  Talk about Neutral Switzerland!  During a lull in the battle, Abby designed and executed a new, superior paper airplane that she aptly named, "The Atlantic Arrow."

 

Then it was time to open The Big One.  It was a real, but kid-sized, Timex IronMan watch.  Now the whole Estrela crew have the same type of watch, which is good for diving up to 100 meters (as if!), and most importantly, has an alarm (to help remember radio schedules), stop-watch (for timing math facts tests), and a repeating count-down timer (for reminding sailors to carefully scan the horizon for ships).  We immediately all synchronized our nearly identical watches to go off every fifteen minutes for the "look around" on deck.  We are now a chirping, beeping chorus of four, every fifteen minutes.  It's a little crazy, but hey, we've been at sea for fifteen days . . . .

 

After lunch (left-over vegetarian chili) Abigail opened another present.  This was a cd-rom computer game called Pony Luv.  Abby is nuts about horses and satisfies her yearnings with virtual animal husbandry.  Out came the computer and hours later, we peeled her away from the screen to frost the cake -- Betty Crocker frosting scooped from a canister stowed in the bilge in Malaysia, of all places.

 

A few more presents opened and then The Birthday Movie Event.  For once, Abby got to pick the movie, Fellowship of the Ring.  She had just finished reading The Hobbit last night and was keen to continue the adventure.  She and Eliza watched with head phones while sitting at the table while I cooked a spaghetti dinner (fresh sauce, not a morphed left-over . . . very special) and Doug stood watch in the cockpit, having set Estrela to heave-to, to improve the boat's motion for the last few hours of the birthday party.  Dinner was served just after the girls finished watching one of Abigail's favorite scenes, which involved horses, of course.  Arwen, on horseback with an injured Frodo on her lap, narrowly escapes the chase of the Ring Wraiths.

 

Candle lighting, singing, and wishing while gathered all around the lovely, lopsided cake.

 

Happy Birthday, my dear 11-year-old daughter.

 

-- Mom

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 8:51 AM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Friday, March 27, 2009 (Day 16 of passage to St Helena from South Africa) . . . WE MADE IT!

 

1115 local time Friday, March 27, 2009 (1115 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 15º55.140'S, 005º43.143'W.   Location: Jamestown Harbor, St Helena, 1700 NM NW of Cape Town, South Africa.  Course and speed over ground: None.  Wind: SE <10.  Sea: No wind waves, rolly swell wrapping into the anchorage.  Sky: 4/8, beautiful, sunny day .  Air temp: 84ºF outside and 86ºF inside.  Barometer: 1016mb.  Water temp: 79ºF .  Humidity: 57%.  Current: None.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Sails furled; engine off; anchored two minutes ago in 55' depth with 35lb Bruce anchor, 150' 8mm chain, and 15' nylon snubber.  Fishing: Skunked one last time, but we hardly put the line out long enough to have much chance.  Last 24 hour run (through 0530 local time [0530 GMT]): 88 NM.  Forecast: More SE trades.  Thoughts:  We made it!

 

                    *                            *                          *                         *

 

Making landfall is thrilling.  It doesn't matter if this is your first time or one hundred first time.  There is nothing like the pang in your heart when you can see that thin black line just above the horizon.  You may notice clouds gathering on the horizon and an abundance of sea birds flying over head long before the you can discern the thin black line.  But you know that it is there.  Your chart tells you that it is there.  Even in the dark, with the binoculars, you know that you will be able to see it.  Sometimes you are aided by the lights of civilization, a faint glow on the horizon.  Even so, you keep looking for that thin black line. 

 

Eliza was the first to spot the faint glow of St. Helena's one town called Jamestown at 0230.  The island was 21 NM to port.    Our cruising guide said that on a clear day, one can see St. Helena from 70 NM.  Not this day. The island had been shrouded by clouds and fog all day and night.  And so by dawn on Friday, St. Helena was now a massive rock in the middle of the sea. I had missed the thin black line.

 

Making landfall is also nerve-wracking.  This is when mistakes happen.  Shoals, rocks, and reefs abound near land.  Maybe the chart is off by several degrees, as in Indonesia, where we finally turned off the chart plotter because we were supposedly sailing on land!  And the crew, in elation, may let its collective guard down.  This can not happen!  So we switched from a 15 minute "look around" to a constant watch keeper.  Abby even set her new watch to go off every five minutes, just to be sure.  You could hear her, the town crier, yell, "Look around!"  Eliza took pictures and videos.  I tidied down below, made breakfast, and tried not to get too tense.  Doug checked the charts and called St. Helena Port Control on the VHF, as part of the landfall protocol, to inform the officials of our arrival.  All the while, we marveled at the dramatic scenery, rocky cliffs dropping directly to the sea, huge swell crashing against the barren island face, and tiny patches of lush green peeking out from the interior.  And then there was Jamestown itself, a one-street wide, 500 year-old town built up a narrow volcanic valley from the sea into the mountains.  We could see the famous, "Jacob's Ladder", a 600-foot high, 699-step staircase, which climbs from the town center up to the top of the ridge where there are many houses overlooking the sea.

 

I will stop here with this landfall story and continue.  We are having trouble with propagation and it is hard to send and receive email here.  So I want to cut this longer story into shorter bites.  Stay tuned!

 

--Kyle

 

PS:  Monday March 30, 2009 12:50 pm (1250 GMT). St. Helena.

 

We have no ability to connect to Sailmail via SSB here in St. Helena.  So we can't send emails from the boat.  There is just no HF radio propagation in the St Helena anchorage; we don't know why.  Possibly it's because the island is a massive rock lying smack between us and the closest Sailmail relay station in Maputo, Mozambique.  So while we are in St Helena we can send emails only through the local internet "cafe," a homey restaurant named "Anne's Place."  We will do our best to send periodic emails while we are here in St. Helena.  In the meantime, all is well on Estrela and Abby goes in tomorrow morning (Tues) to see the dentist.

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:56 AM

Subject: Astrella news

 

Hi George,

We are friends of Doug & family also crossing the Atlantic at the moment. Doug asked me to let you know that they departed St Helena on Monday and that all is well on board. The propagation is very poor for the first couple of days out of St H and Sailmail doesnt work. We have a radio sched. with them and talk every morning.  If there is anything from your side I am happy to pass it on.  Being further west Sailmail once again works for us

Luki & Elmari

SV Skebenga

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Monday, April 27, 2009 (Day 1 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena) -- Estrela's underway again!

 

2230 local time Monday, April 27, 2009 (2230 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 15º55'S, 006º30'W.  Location: 46 NM W of Jamestown Harbor, St Helena and 2300 NM (more or less) ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, our destination.  Course and speed over ground: 274ºT @ 2.4 kts.  Wind: SE 5-6 kts.  Sea: long gentle swell with barely a ripple of wind waves.  Sky: cloudless and stars brilliant.  Air temp: 75ºF outside and 78ºF inside.  Barometer: 1018mb.  Water temp: 77ºF .  Humidity: 63%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Full main and genoa on port tack, broad reach.  Fishing: Not today . . . but yesterday Abby caught five small mackerel off Estrela at anchor, using stew meat trimmings as bait!  Last 24 hour run: NA; we weighed anchor this morning at 0850 and motored in flat calm conditions for the first seven hours to begin this long passage to Brazil.  Forecast: Light winds predicted for the next five days or so because a low and trailing trough which formed off the Brazilian coast near Rio de Janeiro are moving slowly ESE, killing the trade winds north of them.  Thoughts:  Choosing the best route to Rio will be a puzzle.  Anyone who wants to try your hand at this routing game should download the free user-interface software available at Grib.US, allowing you to download and view grib files (with wind strength and direction arrows) for whatever size area you are interested in, for up to a week ahead.  It's easy to use and a lot of fun . . . and free (not counting your internet connect time).

 

              *                              *                               *                          *

 

We have to arrive in Brazil by May 28 -- 31 days from today -- or our Brazilian visas expire.  The other sailboats we know who are spread across the central South Atlantic have all been experiencing light winds for the last couple of weeks and these conditions are likely to continue.  But 31 days should be plenty of time for Estrela, requiring us to average about 75 NM per day, or about 3 knots.  We'd rather arrive with a few days to spare, of course.  But even if we wanted to go faster than the wind allows, our motoring range is only about 700 NM.  So we must be patient and attentive sailors.  With Eliza and Abigail both taking on more responsibility in sailing Estrela we should be able to meet the challenge.  We have all looked forward eagerly to this long passage across the Atlantic, and now we've finally begun!

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Tuesday, April 28, 2009 (Day 2 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2230 local time Tuesday, April 28, 2009 (2230 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 15º39'S, 007º40'W.  Location: 115 NM WNW of Jamestown Harbor, St Helena and approximately 2200 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.  Course and speed over ground: 287ºT @ 3.8 kts.  Wind: ESE 7-10 kts.  Sea: very gentle.  Sky: not a cloud -- a great night to practice star-finding.  Air temp: 75ºF outside and 79ºF inside.  Barometer: 1018mb.  Water temp: 78ºF .  Humidity: 64%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Full main, full genoa poled wing and wing to starboard, starboard tack, broad reach.  Fishing: None; still working on the big beef stew we cooked up just before leaving St Helena.  Last 24 hour run: 68 NM.  Forecast: Continued light easterlies, though the wind should get a little stronger tomorrow; we are frustrated by not receiving any new weather grib files because we are so far unable to connect with Sailmail to send and receive email.  Thoughts: When we speak with our friends Luki and Elmari on Skebenga by SSB tomorrow morning we will ask them to send George a short email letting him know we've left St Helena and explaining our difficulties with propagation and Sailmail email.

 

              *                              *                               *                          *

 

We couldn't have asked for a more gentle return to the high seas.  The recent light air had left the surface nearly flat and we have been gliding along.  While drinking our morning coffee and tea (even with calm conditions, my stomach doesn't take to coffee at sea) and eating freshly baked oatmeal raisin muffins, Doug and I marveled at the beauty of the day.  I realized that we haven't been this relaxed at sea since our crossing from Malaysia to Chagos in 2007!  Of course weather rules the day and we know that conditions could change quickly, but for the moment, we are in sailing bliss.  The girls even took out their instruments in the afternoon and practiced for more than an hour.  It was such a treat to hear live music.  Dinner was easy; I just added butternut squash to last night's pressure-cookered beef: Day Two of the stew.  Let's see if I can get 5 days of "morphing" out of this crossing's stew.

 

-- Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 1:29 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Wednesday, April 29, 2009 (Day 3 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2300 local time Wednesday, April 29, 2009 (2300 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 15º00'S, 009º35'W.  Location: approximately 2050 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and 230 NM WNW of St Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 292ºT @ 5.6 kts.  Wind: ENE 13-18 kts.  Sea: regular and comfortable wind waves; long gentle SE swell -- barely perceptible.  Sky: just a few small cumulus clouds -- a lovely tradewinds sky.  Air temp: 77ºF outside and 80ºF inside.  Barometer: 1018 mb.  Water temp: 78ºF.  Humidity: 65%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Full main and genny, starboard tack, broad reach.  Fishing: None; very early this morning, however, a flying fish landed in the cockpit beside Eliza and flopped around furiously before she gently captured it with her hands and tossed it back; she briefly considered saving it for a breakfast treat for the family.   Last 24 hour run: 87 NM.  Forecast: Today's glorious easterly tradewinds will likely die away for a half a day or more as the low passes south of us sometime in the next couple days.  Thoughts: Today's wind, seas, sky, temperature, humidity -- you name it -- match the most pleasant sailing conditions we have experienced on any passage anywhere in the world.

 

              *                              *                               *                          *

 

This email blackout is getting frustrating.  It has been years since we were unable send or receive email for more than a day or so during an ocean passage.  We hope that Luki and Elmar were able to get a message out to George for us and that our parents/grandparents are not worrying too much.  It has become so easy to connect via Sailmail that we have come to take it for granted.  At least we have HF voice contact daily with several other boats.  And I have listened in to a couple of the the Ham Radio maritime mobile nets active in the South Atlantic.  They are always available in an emergency or to get a message out if we can't impose on a nearby friendly yacht on passage who is able to connect via Sailmail or Winlink (the Ham version of Sailmail).  Knowing that once we finally do connect again with Sailmail we will have a slug of emails to upload, we are going to have to keep our daily log entries pretty short until we clear out our Outbox.  So that's it for tonight.  

 

-- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Thursday, April 30, 2009 (Day 4 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2300 local time Thursday, April 30, 2009 (2300 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 14º22'S, 011º13'W.  Location: approximately 1950 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and 335 NM WNW of St Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 280ºT @ 3.8 kts.  Wind: E 7-9 kts.  Sea: gentle wind waves and swell.  Sky: 1/8 -- some wispy cumulus barely obscuring a few stars.  Air temp: 77ºF outside and 80ºF inside.  Barometer: 1017 mb.  Water temp: 78ºF.  Humidity: 70% (even feels a bit damper tonight).  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Full main and genny (latter poled to port), starboard tack, broad reach.  Fishing: Still not.   Last 24 hour run: 126 NM.  Forecast: Wind diminished somewhat today as expected; it should start filling back in slowly during the day tomorrow, though we still haven't seen any new grib files for five days now.  Thoughts: Estrela feels like a very happy boat.

 

              *                              *                               *                          *

 

Still ideal conditions.  There's just enough wind to keep us moving along.  Still no Sailmail connectivity.  So our only outside contact with people is through the HF (SSB) radio, during our three scheduled radio nets in the morning.  The settled and mild weather conditions coupled with the radio propagation dead zone has had a positive effect on the Estrela crew.  It feels as if we are on a vacation in a remote place!  The girls are reading like monsters, tearing through books.  And we are back to our family reading aloud in the cockpit.  We're on to the next novel of Patrick O'Brian's Jack Aubrey / Stephen Maturin series, The Surgeon's Mate.  The year is 1813, right in the Napoleonic Wars.  Talk about making history come alive, having just immersed ourselves in St. Helena's seafaring, military, and Napoleonic history.  The crew has also started to fashion itself after the Royal Navy.  Besides more utterances of "aye aye, Captain," and no complaints about the weevils (this time in the popcorn), we have started to learn celestial navigation.  Doug pulled out and dusted off the sextant box.  We all stood around him as he opened the varnished wooden box.  Inside, the gorgeous instrument was lying protected and dust-free.  The sextant was a generous gift to us from our friend Jim Hopkins and it was finally getting used. While I took my daytime nap, Captain Doug and his midshipmen, went on deck and shot their first noon sight, to find our latitude and longitude.  Ok, so after checking their fix against that of the GPS, they were 30 NM off.  But it's a big ocean, right???  Nothing like a little incentive to practice.

 

Food note:  Day four of stew . . . now a Tuscan bean soup.  I sauteed Italian sausage and fennel seed in a separate frying pan and then added the aromatic mixture to the pressure cooker, along with a can of chick peas and another of green beans.  Served over a bed of rice, it was delicious.

 

--Kyle

 

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Friday, May 1, 2009 (Day 5 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2300 local time Friday, May 1, 2009 (2300 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 14º04'S, 012º54'W.  Location: approximately 1850 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and 435 NM WNW of St Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 278ºT @ 5.4 kts.  Wind: E <5 kts.  Sea: flat.  Sky: 1/8 (basically clear).  Air temp: 77ºF outside and 84ºF inside.  Barometer: 1016 mb.  Water temp: 79ºF.  Humidity: 63%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Engine at 1100 RPM.  Fishing: Dragged a brightly colored feathered thing for most of the daylight hours, but utterly skunked.   Last 24 hour run: 94 NM.  Forecast: My forecast yesterday was completely wrong.  Instead of increasing today, the wind did the opposite; it held fine through Thursday night and then dropped gradually, dying entirely about 4:30 PM, when we turned on the engine.  This morning, friends on two other boats who had just seen grib files reported over the radio that the low passing to the south would kill the easterly tradewinds until sometime on Sunday.   Thoughts: The girls are taking on more and more sailing responsibility, electrifying Estrela.

 

              *                             *                              *                          *

 

Now that we've become celestial navigators, our star gazing has taken on a sharp purpose.  Especially after the waxing moon has set, the recent, relatively cloudless nights have been dark and bursting with heavenly bodies.  Armed with red-lighted head lamps and two excellent star books, H.A. Rey's, "Stars, A New Way to See Them," and the "National Audubon Society Field Guide to the Night Sky" (a valued present from our friend Kate Levin), we have worked hard on identifying constellations, with particular attention to those with bright stars that could be used for dawn navigational fixes. 

 

In the early evening we can see these beauties: Orion, forward (west); Southern Cross, port (or should I say in 1813 terminology, the "larboard") beam; and the Big Dipper, across the sky on starboard (finally, as we have approached the equator, this old friend is back in full view for at least part of each night).  Later, as Orion is setting, the enormous Scorpion rises aft of Estrela (east).  So these constellations, among the easiest to identify, are our cornerstones.  Now the work begins.  What lies in between?  I was working on the Herdsman (aka Bootes), the Lion (aka Leo), and the Centaur and the Wolf combination.  During Eliza's watch, she identified several, including her new favorite, the Peacock.

 

We also had another Royal Navy day on deck.  This time, Captain Doug and his midshipmen hoisted the spinnaker.  And then the two young lasses took the helm from our robotic coxswain -- Otto the autohelm -- and hand-steered for two hours to keep the spinnaker filled in this light air!  I was off-watch during all the excitement, sleeping like a baby in my bunk.

 

Food note: Day five of the stew . . . now a spaghetti sauce!  I added canned tomato paste and diced tomatoes as well as lots of oregano.  I served it with grated fresh Parmesan cheese and a salad of fresh cabbage and cucumbers with a balsamic vinaigrette.

 

 

--Kyle

 

PS -- Sorry for the use of quotation marks where underlining is called for.  Sailmail's formatting options are basic and underlining is not one of the options.

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 7th @ 1815 GMT (14 deg 44' S; 22 deg 00' W) . . . still terrible radio propagation

 

Current position:  14 deg 44' S; 22 deg 00' W

 

1350 NM to go to Rio

 

We're hopeful that radio propagation will improve.

 

Lots of Love,

 

KDEA

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 2:39 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 8th @ 1830 GMT (14 deg 51' S; 23 deg 37' W)

 

Current position:  14 deg 51' S; 23 deg 37' W

 

Course 250 deg T, Speed 4 kts

 

Love, KDEA

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 3:06 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 11th @ 0900 GMT (16 deg 25' S; 26 deg 51' W); HAPPY MOTHER's DAY (yesterday)!!!

 

Current Position:  16 deg 56' S; 27 deg 53' W

 

Course and Speed:  242 deg True, 4.0 kts.

 

950 NM to go to Rio.

 

Happy Mothers' Day!!

 

Love, KDEA

 

(PS -- Still bad radio propagation; we keep trying, hoping for improvement.  Will always try to send a very simple up-to-date message, like this one, in case something opens up even briefly to get our signal out.  We are building up a backlog of regular log entries to send to George when the propagation becomes normal.)

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Saturday, May 2, 2009 (Day 6 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2300 local time Saturday, May 2, 2009 (2300 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 13º55'S, 014º16'W.  Location: approximately 1770 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and 515 NM WNW of St Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 269ºT @ 3.0 kts.  Wind: ESE 6 to 9 kts.  Sea: just bobbing along.  Sky: 1/8 cloud cover -- scattered small cumulus clouds.  Air temp: 78ºF outside and 81ºF inside.  Barometer: 1014 mb.  Water temp: 80ºF.  Humidity: 68%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Running; on starboard tack; full main and genoa wing and wing.  Fishing: Going too slowly for a lure to attract any fish.   Last 24 hour run: 91 NM.  Average distance covered per day during passage: 93 NM.  Forecast: Continued very light east wind through Sunday; still not receiving grib files because of Sailmail "dead-zone," but now getting weather forecasts read daily by ham radio operator Grahame (ZS2ABK) on the South African Maritime Mobile Net, with whom we have just begun checking in each day at 1130 UTC.  Thoughts: In an emergency, if we were not reachable through Sailmail because of this continuing intermittent radio propagation trouble, Grahame could pass on a message to us.  His email address is ZS2ABK@intekom.co.za.

 

              *                             *                              *                          *

 

It's been another day in Paradise.  With this light wind we were able to hang old sheets from the sides of our sunshade, using laundry pegs, to give us a fully enclosed and shaded cockpit.  No sunscreen needed.  We sat in our cozy "porch" and read aloud for hours.  We finished The Surgeon's Mate just after lunch, a delicious meal of tortillas.  I had inadvertently killed the yeast in my bread dough; but luckily a resourceful Abigail suggested that tortillas could be a good alternative use for the glutinous blob of unleavened dough. Disaster turned triumph as we happily ate flat pan bread with Indian curry, homemade yogurt and rice.

 

Doug made his first contact ever with a ham radio weather net today.  Now that he (finally) has a general ham radio license, he can speak with other hams around the world.  You may be wondering how Doug got a ham radio license in the middle of the Atlantic?  Well, he bought one in St. Helena!  He is now the proud owner of a St. Helena ham radio operator's license, call sign ZD7KEA.  ZD7 is the St. Helena call sign prefix, and then he got to choose three other letters.  The good Captain picked the initials of his loyal crew, KEA.  

 

Food note:  Day 6 of stew . . well, we were all basically getting sick of Mediterranean style stew, so I re-pressurized it for tomorrow and made Chinese fried rice instead.

 

--Kyle

 

           HAM RADIO NOTE (written with technical guidance from my hunk-of-a-ham husband): Back in Florida, in January 2004, Doug had actually taken a fairly tough exam and obtained a US amateur radio "ham" operator license, and even got his own call sign (KB1KRE).  But it was only for the Technician level, which gave him privileges on a limited (and to us, utterly useless) piece of the ham radio bands.  But then, as we were madly doing final preparations to ready Estrela to sail away, he crammed for and passed an even tougher radio theory exam, one of two hurdles to upgrade to a General category license.  This was the upgrade he needed to be able to transmit on the frequencies used by the maritime mobile ham nets which provide an incredible web of support to sailors all around the world.  But Doug ran out of time to study for the other exam he needed to pass -- five words per minute Morse Code competency.  Frankly, memorizing sounds (or even, learning songs!) isn't one of Doug's strengths.  Ironically, shortly after the one-year period expired during which he was eligible to take the Morse code test, and after which he'd have to retake the General theory exam, the U.S. FCC dropped the ham General license Morse code requirement altogether.  For years Doug has been thinking of starting over again to try to get that General upgrade, but he hadn't found a way to take the General exam outside the U.S.  Well low and behold, along comes St Helena, with its liberal system for issuing ham radio licenses (just pay 21 Pounds and fill out a form!).  And voila, Doug's finally a full fledged ham!

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 3:54 PM
Subject: Estrela Log Entry -- Sunday, May 3, 2009 (Day 7 of passage to Rio de Janeiro from St Helena)

 

2130 local time Sunday, May 3, 2009 (2300 GMT).  Lat/Lon: 13º51'S, 015º16'W.  Location: approximately 1715 NM ENE of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and 565 NM WNW of St Helena.  Course and speed over ground: 290ºT @ 3.0 kts.  Wind: ESE 6 to 8 kts.  Sea: Virtually no wind waves; but all day a big, long-period (13-15 seconds) southwest swell has been building; a big gale far, far to the south of us must have generated this swell.  Sky: 0/8 cloud cover -- crisply clear moon and stars.  Air temp: 78ºF outside and 82ºF inside.  Barometer: 1015 mb.  Water temp: 80ºF.  Humidity: 68%.  Current: None detected.  Sail/engine combination and tack: Dead run on starboard tack; full main and genoa wing and wing.  Fishing: Tried all day . . . nothing; with a five-knot trolling speed we might have had some luck; but we've never exceeded three knots today.  Last 24 hour run: 73 NM.  Average distance covered per day during passage: 90 NM.  Forecast: Had expected the light wind to be changing to normal trades by Sunday evening; so far, though, there's no indication we've yet seen the last of this wind "hole."  Thoughts: Though we are keen to go faster and know we just don't have the time flexibility to sail to Rio at 2.5 kts  . . nevertheless, this is sure pleasant sailing.

 

              *                             *                              *                          *

 

Still no propagation.  Still light wind.  Still one happy boat. 

 

We started the next Aubrey/Maturin adventure in book 8, The Ionian Mission.  We read while eating Sunday brunch in the sun-shaded cockpit/porch.  I had gotten up early to make American (as opposed to Norwegian, British, or French) pancakes with fresh banana chunks.  The biggest treat was the syrup.  I had found a bottle of Mrs. Butterworth's syrup in the grocery store in Knysna!  Usually, we have had to slather our pancakes with a very poor imitation of an American imitation syrup.  So this was liquid gold.  (Of course we are yearning for the real thing that my brother makes every year in his sugar shack, but we can't be too picky.)

 

The afternoon was all about celestial navigation: taking the noonsight and calculating the numbers.

 

Food note:  Day 7 of stew . . pasta sauce and spaghetti.  That's it.  No more.  Finito.  Phew!

 

 

--Kyle

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 3:39 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 13th @ 1700 GMT (18 deg 53' S; 31 deg 32' W); HAPPY BIRTHDAY KAY!!!

 

Current Position:  18 deg 53' S; 31 deg 32' W

Course and Speed:  245 deg True, 3.8 kts.

720 NM to go to Rio.

 

Happy Birthday, Kay!! (early wishes in case we can't get a msg out then)

 

Love, KDEA

 

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 2:18 PM
Subject: All (still) well on board Estrela May 15 @ 1800 GMT (20 deg 42' S; 35 deg 39' W)

 

Current Position:  20 deg 42' S; 35 deg 39' W

Course and Speed:  232 deg True, 6.0 kts.

Sky getting brighter; just passed through dark, rainy frontal system.

 

450 NM to go to Rio.

 

Love, KDEA

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 5:29 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 17th @ 2130 GMT (21 deg 45' S; 37 deg 44' W)

 

Current Position:  21 deg 45' S; 37 deg 44' W

Course and Speed:  245 deg True, 5.0 kts.

320 NM to go to Rio.  Weathered passage of cold front yesterday, heaving to and making good 14 NM in 24 hrs.

 

Love, KDEA

 

-----Original Message-----
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 2:28 PM
Subject: All well on board Estrela May 19th @ 1820 GMT (4:20 PM local tme) (23 deg 04' S; 41 deg 04' W) -- 120 NM to go to Rio de Janeiro!!

 

Current Position:  23 deg 04' S; 41 deg 04' W

Course and Speed:  260 deg True, 5.2 kts.

120 NM to go to Rio.  50 NM E of Cabo Frio; just passed vast offshore oil field, and safely crossed busy shipping lanes.

 

Love, KDEA

 

PS -- Sailmail propagation still nearly impossible.

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 7:20 PM

Subject: Estrela arrives in Rio de Janeiro, Brasil and ties up at Clube Naval Charitas, Niteroi, at 1525 GMT (1225 local time) on May 21, 2009! All well on board, 3/4 checked into the country, and now catching up on sleep and trying to learn Portuguese.

 

We made it!!  We were welcomed into the harbor of Rio de Janeiro by the open arms of the Cristo Redentor statue high above the city.  It was our 25th day at sea, and after all the endless blue of the unbroken horizon, it was a thrill to see mountainous green and white beaches and skyscrapers and airplanes and . . . okay, basically civilization once again. 

 

We safely are tied up to the dock at the Clube Naval Charitas yacht club, which is across the harbor from Rio proper, in the town of Niteroi.  Bossa nova music on the radio, Brazilians speaking Portuguese (and pretty much only Portuguese), and the ubiquitous bikini, no matter what size – this is Brazil.

 

-- Kyle and Eliza       

 

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