----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, June 20, 2004 2:32 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2100 local time Friday, June 18, 2004 (0600 GMT 06/19/04); S 23 deg 07' / W 134 deg 58', Rikitea Anchorage, Mangareva Island, Gambiers, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We made it!  Anchor down and engine off at 1337 local time.  Our South African friends (with two boys, 9 and 7) from the catamaran Alii Nui arrived by dinghy moments later with two authentic fresh French baguettes and a

steaming pot of coffee.  It was a nearly surreal moment.   We exchanged

tears and hugs when they stepped aboard, this family whose last name we don't even know but with whom we have shared so much, speaking daily by SSB radio during our parallel passages from the Galapagos to the Gambiers, although they had started about ten days behind us.  We had really kept each other going.  Then a British couple off another sailboat, Lionheart, hailed us and also came aboard Estrela, offering us thick filets of Mahi Mahi they had caught yesterday while also inbound from the Galapagos, though having left 20 days after us.  Dinner tonight here was, guess what?  Fresh fish, home-fried potato chips and mashed potatoes!  Mmmmmmmmm.  Are we looking forward to a long night of sleep or what?  The stormy weather has blown through and this is now the calmest anchorage we have enjoyed since somewhere in the Bahamas; it's as if Estrela were back on "the hard" in Connecticut.  When I wrote last night's log entry we had not yet seen the worst winds, although our routing strategy continued to work.  As the wind backed through North to Northwest and stayed strong we had "banked" enough northing to keep the wind comfortably just ahead of the beam until we cranked up the engine and began crossing the pass into the lagoon at about 1100.  Kyle had the toughest job in all of this, coming on watch at 0200 and guiding Estrela through three powerful squalls, unseen in the moonless night until driving rain and screaming wind in the rigging announced each one's arrival, each packing maximum wind of 35 to 40 knots.  Kyle has evolved into a hell of a sailor, the best proof being that I can turn over the watch to her in the middle of a dark and stormy night and sleep soundly until she wakes me.  This has been an incredible passage for Estrela and her crew.  We feel blessed and humbled by all the love and support we have felt from family and friends over the last month and a half.  Thank you, all.  – Doug

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 12:03 PM

Subject: All's well

 

 

Hi -- Propagation has been very poor, but all's well here.  We've been trying to dry out, repair boat and recover from our long passage.  We're more exhausted than we had realized, but spirits are still up.  Preparing to depart for Tuamotus as soon as can re-provision, esp. fuel and propane, also

some food basics like rice and flour.   Must wait for supply ship next week

for propane.  Chilly here, and cloudy and windy -- little swimming.  Girls having much fun with Alii Nui boys who are also anchored here.  We all watched Finding Nemo and ate home-made pizza aboard Estrela tonight.  The boys are even sleeping over tonight.  We've been befriended by a very generous Polynesian family who even had us for an incredible traditional Polynesian feast, including banana poe (pronounced "poi"), pumpkin poe, taro, manioc, poisson cru, and other traditional dishes all served very simply in their kitchen.  We had the mom and her three young children to Estrela for Brunswick stew dinner.   Very sad news about Sandy.  I sure hope he continues to improve.  How is Edith doing?  And Sandy's confidence?  Is Mike Tyson Abby Tyson's dad?  This news makes me feel very far away. How's Gigi?  Thinking of you often.  Happy Father's Day a week and a half late.  I forgot about it completely, even for Doug.  He found out about it from other emails.  We gave him a special day during the week, which basically meant an extra cup of perked coffee in the morning and brownies for desert at dinner!

 

Love, me

 

 

PS -- Yes, we sent letter-less envelopes to family members to send Pitcairn stamps.  They're supposed to be coveted collectors items.

 

PPS - Eliza lost a canine tooth tonight -- very exciting. She's going to save it and investigate what Polynesian kids do with their teeth that fall out.

 

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2004 1:31 AM

Subject: boom box parade!

 

 

Happy 4th!  Did you go to the boom box parade?  Today its blowing like stink--don't even want to go off Estrela--too bumpy and wet in the dinghy! Gearing up for next passage.  I'm in the middle of emptying food stowage areas and washing down with vinegar to get rid of mildew and to assess the food situation.  I should have bought more food--esp. toilet paper in Panama!  Oh well.  Down to last meal of rice, no sugar, no fresh veg--or even any canned, almost out of canned meat.  So it looks like we'll have an

expensive day at the small markets.   We're the only American boat here, so

it was an on board singing patriotic songs festival just the Hopkins.  We're enjoying speaking French and eating fresh baguettes each morning!  Also enjoying our South African friends on Alii Nui--meals together, hiking, kids playing on beach all by themselves making forts--just being kids-reminds me of Gilligan's Island in Cornish.  They are leaving tomorrow--and they are a fast wooden catamaran(he built it himself--took 7 years) so who knows when we'll see them next(boohoo)

 

I love you.  We are chilly but very happy!

 

Love, me

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 3:56 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2130 local time Sunday, July 11, 2004 (0630 GMT 07/12/04); S 22 deg 52' / W 135 deg 19', on passage from Gambiers to Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We are moving again and apologize for the long hiatus in log entries.  What we did in Rikitea, Gambiers was to slow down, rest up and prepare boat and crew for the next leg of our voyage.  We also spent time with friends, including the family on Alii Nui (that's the name of the catamaran they built in Durban, South Africa) -- Allison and Des and their boys Jared and Dylan, as well as new and incredibly generous  Mangarevan friends, especially Rose Togakaputa and her children Stellio (9), Rose (8) and Dominique (2). 

 

Now we are sailing northwest (308 degrees True, to be exact) up the long chain of widely distributed atolls that make up the Tuamotus archipelago in French Polynesia.  We don't know where we will stop; it'll depend on wind and weather.  We plan at least to stop at Kauehi atoll, where I spent several weeks in 1989 when cruising through French Polynesia aboard Valkyr with Jim Hopkins, his wife Shelley and her son Isaiah.  I have warm recollections of the friendships we made with the village chief and his wife and grandson and have brought scanned photos Jim sent me last fall.  I hope to find someone in Kauehi who may remember our visit, a longshot, probably, but something I'm keen to try.

 

Kauehi is still 700 to 800 miles ahead, though, and we will likely stop at one or more atolls before then, maybe Amanu, about 450 miles from here.  Amanu and its larger neighbor, Hao, were off limits to cruising boats until very recently, because Hao was a major military and supply center when France was using Mururoa and Fangataufa Atolls in the southern Tuamotus as nuclear bomb test sites (remember the United States' tests at Bikini Atoll?).  So we are hoping Amanu will view visits by sailboats as something unusual.  I remember being told when we arrived at Kauehi that we were the first cruising boat to visit there in six months.  The volume of sailboats transiting French Polynesia has grown tremendously since 1989, especially in the Tuamotus which have become much more accessible in large part because of GPS and affordable radar systems, making the "Dangerous Archipelago" (a name the Tuamotus earned centuries ago) a lot less dangerous for the typical cruising sailboat.  Now, for example, it seems as though Kauehi has become a favorite stop for many boats traveling from the Marquesas to Tahiti, and we are likely to encounter a number of other sailboats when we arrive there.

 

Right now the crew of Estrela are all looking forward to some warm water and settled sunny weather.  So we are very happy to be headed north again, wherever we make landfall next.  The Gambiers in winter -- this winter at least -- are downright wintery.  We swam once in three weeks there and the girls lasted about four minutes in the water before their lips turned purple.  It didn't help that we had high winds and rain or the threat of rain almost every day.  This made our visit to the Gambiers more about the people than the snorkeling.  It was tough to say goodbye and we all hope to return there someday.  -- Doug

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 5:05 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2315 local time Tuesday, July 13, 2004 (0815 GMT 07/14/04); S 20 deg 48' / W 136 deg 59', on passage from Gambiers to Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We have motorsailed from the Gambiers smack into a big high pressure system with very little wind.  There was not much we could have done to avoid the large area of little to no wind; it seems to be covering much of French Polynesia.  Fortunately, the last few hours have brought some needed relief and we are making about 4 knots now with the engine off!  We have already put a big "dent" in our diesel supply, running the engine for over thirty hours since leaving Rikitea.  I am trying to find out whether diesel is available in Hao.  Because there is a low tracking east right behind this high and the undesirable effects of these lows (especially the high winds from the NW, W and SW) seems much stronger south of about 20 degrees south latitude, I have figured it made the most sense to "invest" our diesel reserves in getting us as far north as possible as quickly as we could travel.  So that's what we're doing right now -- heading due north.  As the high moves east and the low approaches, the winds will back from the east to NE and then north, and we will alter course to head more west as the wind forces us to.  The direction we are trying to travel to reach Kauehi is approximately northwest.  We hope that when the wind inevitably goes to the NW it will not be strong and that we will not have much farther to go to reach an interim anchorage, probably at either Hao or Amanu Atoll.  All's well aboard Estrela.  Kyle baked two loaves of delicious banana bread early this morning, using two-thirds of our Rikitea bananas (latter were very ripe -- Abigail announced this afternoon that she had killed 14 fruit flies).  Mmmmm . . . makes up for having to take a break from our delightful tradition of fresh-baked french baguettes with our coffee while we were anchored in Rikitea.  Kyle or I could take the dinghy to shore to pick up the bread anytime after 6:30 AM, any day except Sunday.  – Doug

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2004 4:26 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2230 local time Friday, July 16, 2004 (0720 GMT 07/17/04); S 17 deg 59' / W 138 deg 48', on passage from Gambiers to Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

This has truly been a passage like no other we've had before.  Until about 11 this morning we'd enjoyed about 48 hours of glassy seas and no wind.  For a couple hours each day we just stopped the engine and went swimming.  We dived off the bowsprit and even snorkeled around Estrela to investigate the thriving goose barnacles.  These are remarkable invertebrates with what look like small clam shells at the ends of their long necks.  It has been a wonderful family time.  The drone of the engine is escapable in the forepeak or on deck ahead of the cockpit.  Even near the engine, though, the sound has been tolerable, especially since we've been running the engine at relatively low RPM (about 1300) to conserve fuel.  Today the wind has come up a little, allowing us to sail intermittently, though not very fast.  Right now Estrela is doing 2.2 knots; but hey, these knots are free and VERY fuel efficient.  I figure we've burned 37 to 42 of the 95 gallons of diesel on board when we left Rikitea.  We have no fuel gauge and because the fuel tanks have unusual shapes, dipping them with the small wooden dowel rod that we have for this purpose doesn't yield very accurate measurements of remaining fuel.  The GPS chartplotter says we have 125 NM to the pass into Hao Atoll.  Our plan is to buy diesel in Hao, probably taking one 200 liter drum, if it's available and is sold in drums as it was in Rikitea.  Hao was the main French navy base during the nuclear testing period here in the Southern Tuamotus.  Supposedly Hao is now keen to attract yacht traffic, now that the French military base has been closed and the nuclear testing is over.  After refueling in Hao we hope to move to the neighboring atoll, Amanu, which also has a large and beautiful lagoon and a good-sized, though tricky pass allowing vessels to enter the lagoon.  The critical thing with all these Tumotu atolls that have navigable lagoon passes is to time one's transit of the pass carefully so as to catch a period of slack or nearly slack current.  Friends on another boat who are now about two weeks ahead of us reported to us by email that they had missed slack water and the outgoing current during their exit from the Hao lagoon was running at close to 10 knots.  Because Estrela can only motor about 6 knots, max, we wouldn't be able to buck such a strong opposing current.  More later on how we handle the passes.  First, we have to get there.  – Doug

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 2:07 PM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0900 local time Tuesday, July 20, 2004 (1800 GMT 07/20/04); S 17 deg 51.59' / W 140 deg 51.35', at anchor in Amanu atoll lagoon, Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We navigated the pass into the Amanu atoll lagoon without incident at 1430 local time the day before yesterday (Sunday).  Conditions were just about ideal, helped by an incoming tidal current of 2 or 3 knots.  Had the tide been ebbing fast through this narrow cut it might have been a very different story, as a strong NW swell had kicked up the night before when a cold front passed through, shifting the wind from NE to NW and increasing it to 15 to 20 kts.  Turning immediately to starboard (toward the SW) we glided slowly by the small village as people waved and shouted, especially the numerous children.  We anchored as close as we could SW of the town, but not without a little excitement.  We found the lagoon to be deep right to the fringing coral reef along the interior perimeter, ranging in depth from over 100' to about 60' until it shoals sharply as one gets too close to the reef to be able to anchor and still have sufficient swinging room.  This meant we would have to anchor in more depth than we would like.  We carry about 250' of chain anchor rode attached to our 45 lb CQR (plough-type) anchor.  A standard rule rule of thumb is to put out scope, or a ratio of rode length to depth, of 5:1 to 7:1.  This way you maximize the anchor's holding power by having the pull on the anchor be much more horizontal than vertical.  But with 60' -- about the deepest water in which we would ever want to anchor -- we could have only 4.5:1 scope at best.  Moreover, anchoring so deep is just a lot of work.  The chain is heavy; we have to put out a lot of it, and our windlass to retrieve rode and anchor is powered by a manual lever.  No sooner had we put the anchor down and turned off the engine, though, but a family in a small outboard motor boat came out from the village to warn us that this was a dangerous spot to anchor if a strong wind came out of the NE or E.  The Amanu lagoon extends nearly 15 miles to the northeast from this spot and the long "fetch" would allow large wind-driven waves to build up, even though we were protected from the ocean swell.  The villagers recommended that we move around a nearby point where a bulge in the fringing reef would protect us from such winds.  By now our friends on Alii Nui had also entered the pass and anchored near us.  So both boats now began to raise anchor and move as advised.  Their move went without incident.  We had a tough time raising our anchor.  The chain had caught on something hard on the bottom.  We hope it was just rock and not a living coral formation.  By moving back and forth repeatedly with the engine, letting out and hauling back chain and putting some uncomfortable stresses on our bowsprit anchor roller system we were finally able, after an hour of work, to raise the anchor and get ourselves re-anchored around the point just at dark, and unfortunately again in over 60' of depth.  But what a spot we finally had -- a stone's throw from a little tidal inlet through to the outside reef, along a shore fringed by tall, laden coconut palm trees and a narrow sandy beach.  An enormous manta ray flew by Estrela just below the surface, its great wings slowly pumping up and down and cavernous oval mouth open to inhale its minute prey.  Lovely, rose and orangey hues in the sky, and a balmy breeze.  Were we finally in paradise??  It sure felt so.  We all gathered aboard Alii Nui for a potluck dinner celebration after our 7+ day passage from Rikitea, eager to get in the water and go exploring in the morning.  – Doug

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 6:30 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2330 local time Monday, July 26, 2004 (0930 GMT 07/27/04); S 16 deg 51.77' / W 142 deg 37.12', on passage from Hao to Kauehi atolls, Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We enjoyed six nights anchored in Amanu lagoon before sailing to nearby Hao atoll for one night.  Then yesterday, Sunday, we began this 300 mile passage to Kauehi atoll.  We went to Hao, 17 miles from Amanu, to refuel and were lucky enough to find someone late on Saturday who agreed to deliver 200 liters of diesel to us early Sunday.  It couldn't have been more convenient; we spent the night tied to an empty concrete wharf in a protected inner harbor of the former French naval base.  The Mobil truck drove right up to the boat and the fuel was clean and even a little less expensive than in Rikitea.  Until about 2000 this was the main supply center and military base for the French nuclear testing activities in the southern Tuamotus.  Several thousand military personnel and dependents lived here.  The old base feels like a ghost town and this atmosphere even pervades adjacent Otepa, the main village of Hao.  Though the base closure has had predictable economic and social impacts on the community the residents with whom we spoke were happy to have the military gone and the nuclear testing ended.  Estrela was something of a novelty during our short visit.  We had a small crowd of people, mostly kids, hanging around us and ambling around the boat most of the day.  We learned we were the third cruising sailboat to visit Hao in the last few months.  Eliza and Abigail gave gimp (aka boondoggle) lanyards to several children.  Just before we left two of the boys returned with their dad and sister to give us a sack of freshly husked coconuts. 

 

Our reception in Hao was much like that in Amanu, where the children in town led us for a few hours on a slow, friendly tour of their village, talking and collecting shells and flowers and looking at fruits, trees, churches, homes and even the dump.  We returned a few days later with a gift for the village chief, a nice nautical chart.  Though he was off harvesting copra (coconut meat) at one of the lagoon's motus, or small fringing islets, his sister and oldest daughter received us and generously reciprocated with lovely gifts of their own -- two shell sculptures, a fish and a vase, and a shell necklace each for Eliza and Abigail.  It was very tough to leave Amanu.  With more time to linger we could have stayed here a long time.  We waived goodbye to our wonderful friends on Alii Nui as they left Amanu the day before us.  They now need to make tracks to Tahiti and beyond since they are bound for Brisbane, Australia before the beginning of the South Pacific cyclone season in November.  We hope to meet up with them again in New Zealand in January or February.  Eliza and Abigail have made two fast friends in Jared and Dylan.  The four camped one night alone in the boys' two tents on a small island after we had all gathered there for a late afternoon campfire cook-out.  Eliza will relate the story of the parents' weather miscalculation.  Despite downloading weather faxes once and sometimes twice a day and listening to detailed weather reports on the SSB every morning, we had missed the prediction of the passage of a fairly significant cold front the night of the camp-out.  By the time the kids returned to the boats the next day they had named their island "Camp Flud."

 

We are now sailing downwind, enjoying steady tradewinds from the east.  With the course we want to sail, the wind direction is giving us a terrific roll -- not all that comfortable.  We are wing and wing, flying just the staysail and double-reefed main to try to minimize the rolling motion by keeping sail area as low and as close to the mast as possible.  This configuration means too that our speed is slower, 3 to 4 knots, but we are making steady progress, almost 90 miles in our first 24 hours since leaving Hao.  After having motored for so many hours en route from Rikitea to Amanu, we are not complaining.  And the weather window (knock on wood) looks as though it will hold open long enough for us to reach Kauehi before the wind dies or moves to the west. -- Doug

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2004 7:34 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0045 local time Thursday, July 29, 2004 (1045 GMT 07/29/04); S 16 deg 02.22' / W 145 deg 10.73', hove-to just outside the pass into Kauehi atoll lagoon, Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise, awaiting daylight and slack low tide.

 

We made great speed last night as the wind stayed favorable, bringing us very near to Kauehi atoll pass by just after dusk this evening.  So now we are hove-to waiting for the morning before going through the pass into the lagoon.  We have roughly calculated that slack low tide should occur sometime between 6:30 and 9:30 AM tomorrow.  My tide tables provide times for high and low water for several more-or-less nearby atolls, but not for Kauehi.  And even though the nearest three or four atolls for which tide times are given in my very comprehensive British Admiralty Tide Tables are not very far from Kauehi, the times for high and low water tomorrow vary from atoll to atoll by up to 1 1/2 hours.  So we will have to hang-out just outside the Kauehi pass entrance beginning at about 6:30 AM and watch for the the outgoing current to diminish and stop.  We have read that the period of slack is very brief.  Currents in this pass can reach 10 knots, especially the outgoing!  Also, outgoing or "ebb" flows may increase dramatically and suddenly if a strong SE wind is pushing a lot of water up and over the fringing coral and into the lagoon.  I don't know if the current wind conditions are strong enough to trigger this phenomenon.  In any case, we want to ride through the pass when the current is far from a peak ebb flow.  Slack low tide or a small incoming ("flood") tidal flow would be ideal.  A strong flood tide current would also be a problem here though, likely causing "overfalls," large standing waves and powerful eddies on the lagoon side of the pass.  -- Doug 

 

PS -- Eliza baked her first loaf of bread today -- orange/blueberry.  It was delicious!

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 5:18 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2130 local time Friday, July 30, 2004 (0730 GMT 07/31/04); S 15 deg 49.30' / W 145 deg 05.75', anchored in 30' on sand off Tearavero Village, Kauehi atoll lagoon, Tuamotus, Polynesie Francaise.

 

We are anchored in the very spot off the spare white church in the Kauehi atoll village, Tearavero, where I had anchored with Jim Hopkins, Shelley and Isaiah aboard Valkyr in 1989.  I've been inundated by memories and feelings the last few days sailing back with my family to this place which has been such a big part of my own motivation to return to the South Pacific.  Tomorrow we plan to go ashore and look for the "ancien maire," Xavier, and his wife Tania, who had been the village's schoolteacher for 17 years when we were here.  For three nights I have read aloud to Kyle and the girls from the Kauehi section of the detailed journal I had kept aboard Valkyr.  During our time in Kauehi, though less than two weeks I now realize, we had formed a warm bond with Xavier and Tania, and their grandson, Bertrand (then 11), who lived with them, a Tuamotuan or Polynesian tradition, and a number of other townspeople.  Will we find this lovely couple here still when we go ashore tomorrow?  Any of the others?  In all honesty, I have been reluctant to venture ashore right away.  We anchored yesterday morning at 1130 in water clear enough to see the bottom, and had a swarm of black tangs curiously swimming around Estrela before we'd even let out all our chain.  I've tried to slow time since then, to drink in the sights, smells and feel of this place gradually.  I know that many things will have changed in 15 years.  None of my Kauehi friends may still be here; or those who are may have no memory of Valkyr, Jim, Shelley, Isaiah or me.  I do have pictures of our visit to Kauehi -- wonderful pictures, including many of Kauehi friends, most of which Jim shot as slides and just recently had scanned into high quality digital format.  Assuming we do find someone interested in seeing them we can return with our laptop if a computer isn't available in a home.  My journal reminded me that Jim, Shelley and I had promised Tania that we would mail her copies of our pictures.  Well, I never did, and I don't think Jim and Shelley did either (my apologies, guys, if I'm wrong on this).  So here comes a belated delivery attempt.

 

Our passage into the lagoon was exciting but safe.  We arrived just outside as planned and made our first attempt at 0730 but the ebb current was still much too strong and the waves and other turbulence very dramatic.  An hour later the current had diminished to below three knots and we could motorsail through without further incident.  The eight mile reach across to the village gave us plenty of time for high-fiving, whooping and general I-can't-believe-we-made-it-ing.  – Doug

 

----- Original Message -----

To: "Kay and Pop"

Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 1:02 PM

Subject: Estrela on vacation

 

 

Hi Mom and Dad,

Estrela is anchored outside the village in Kauehi after a quick up anchor yesterday from our little motu at the other end of the lagoon.  The wind changed rather quickly and soon we were on a lee shore with lots of coral head all around.  We had three or four days of real vacation at this remote end of the big atoll.  Lots of incredible snorkeling--with rays, loads of fish and even a few black-tipped reef sharks-- and lots of reading out

loud--now Watership Down.   Now we are back at the village, gearing up for a

weekend of festivities sponsored by the church.  This is the wonderful atoll to where Doug has been so excited to return with his family.  His dream as come true.  The old chief and his lovely wife have been so excited to see Doug again and can't believe that he finally came back with his belle femme and jeunes filles.  They are wonderful, like old friends.  No, more like seeing your grandparents after a long time away.  All in French.  With a Polynesian accent.  I'm doing pretty well, can understand better that speaking.  But Doug is incredible, talking like a native.  It is because of his French in particular that we have made connections with islanders that most other cruisers--especially English speaking ones--aren't making.  I realize after talking with other cruisers what an incredible experience we are truly having.  Our French as well as going off the beaten track.  Most cruisers went from the Galapagos to the Marquesas.  Lots of boats.  We heard that some islands had 30 boats in an anchorage.  And these islands cater to cruisers.  So there is a tourist economy.  Okay, so they had really great tradewinds and nice weather, but they weren't going into people's homes and making friends.  Okay, so when we passed 20 degrees South around May 24, our anniversary, we had intense southerly weather with lots of wind--too much wind or no wind.  We had many many lows and stormy weather.  The weather, when it was nice, you knew that it wouldn't last and you always braced yourself for the worse.  Even in Rikitea in the Gambiers.  By the end of our very long stay, I was a wreck from the constant hard wind in the anchorage. We finally escaped. We and our friends on Alii Nui called ourselves the

"crazy idiots down south"!   But it was because we went down south to

islands that aren't used to yachties and because of our French speaking that Estrela is having a unique experience.  So when we arrived at Amanu, island children swarmed us because they don't see that many boats.  The kids are so friendly and genuine.  I had one 8 year old girl hold my hand for at least an hour when all the kids took us for a tour around the island.  And the gifts.  Such generous people.  Here we are in a poor poor island.  No store. Three churches.  One school up to 4th grade.  No cars, just dirt roads and scooters or a tractor if they're lucky.  And yet the chief's eldest of many daughters, he was out gathering copra or fishing, lavished incredible shell necklaces and two sculptures on us after we gave a beautiful chart of the atoll.  Amazing.  At Hao, kids hung out on the wharf where we were tied up. We finally called them on board.  Their first boat visit.  So cute.  And now Kauehi.  This atoll has more traffic because it is between the Marquesas and Tahiti.  Luckily we are at the end of the season, so we are the only ones here.  And of course, we have a wonderful history here.  So we are welcomed like family.

 

I'm just in awe all the time.  And so thankful for all the experiences we are having, the intense and difficult ones to the livin' is easy ones.

 

I love you guys and think about you all the time--and am glad that we have your picture in the head!  I wish that we could share every minute of this adventure, but that's not possible.  With daily activities taking forever--cooking, laundry in buckets, (think Ma Ingalls) and usually radio propagation pretty bad--sometimes it takes Doug an hour of trying to connect--really!  There's just not enough time in a day to do it all.  So we do the best we can.  We are truly living life by the minute.

 

Love, Me

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Sunday, August 22, 2004 5:08 AM

Subject: Sailing again

 

8/21/04  Hi all -- After a break to slow down in two atolls in the Tuamotus, Kauehi and Toau, we are moving again -- bound for Tahiti.  We have had an incredible few weeks with wonderful people and brilliant underwater adventures.  Eliza learned to spear fish and Abigail is swimming like a fish.  We are about 180 NM from the anchorage in Tahiti, Fort Phaeton, where we plan to do some reprovisioning (fresh fruit and veg and canned meat and a couple boat parts) and sightseeing (Gaugin Museum).  From there we will sail another 30 NM to Papeete to do our big check-in with the authorities, see two grandchildren of our friends Taverio and Tania of Kauehi, and do some final shopping.  Then if the French let us, we hope to spend a couple weeks more traveling through the Society Islands before turning west to sail a long way to Tonga, our last island group before we sail to New Zealand around November 1st.  We'll email you more info later .  . just wanted tyo let you know we were still alive and happy.  Love, Doug

 

----- Original Message -----

Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 2:21 PM

Subject: All's well here in Tahiti

 

 

Hi Kay and Tony --

 

We are all fine here in Tahiti, working hard to refuel, reprovision and do some maintenance and repairs.  We haven't taken any time yet to experience what most people come to Tahiti for.  But that's ok.  For us this is the most convenient place for logistics we have found since Panama and we have a lot to get done.  We're preparing for our next big push, which should get us to NZ by early to mid November by way of the Society Islands (part of Fr. Polynesia) and Tonga, with a possible interim stop in Niue.  Kyle had a few down days with a fever just after our arrival in Tahiti, slowing our progress some.  But now we all feel well and charged up again.  The girls and I have been doing one or two grocery store runs a day for the last several days by dinghy and foot.

 

Love, Doug

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2004 2:22 AM

Subject: hanging ten in Tahiti

 

 

Hey George, Deb, and Colin,

 

Sorry about being out of touch--we've just been mesmerized by the rainy, lush, mountains, and the pounding surf--it's rattled our brains.  Actually my dear bro and fam we're truly struggling with the tension between living life and writing about it.  We've been in Tahiti for a little more than a week turning around the boat,getting her ready with food provisions, boat projects and laundry and we have only seen the supermarket and highway.  We spent August on "vacation" in the Tuomoto atolls Kauehi and Toau, where we fished, snorkeled, and met old Tuomotuian friends.  We have alot to share about our incredible experiences, mostly in French, and are looking forward to our next very long passage-leg, Bora-Bora to Tonga--about 1200nm, to work on photo journals and more writing.  I've been writing in a personal journal and have to spend the time adapting things for the web. 

 

We so appreciate all that your doing for us and all our family and friends.  You've done an awesome job making the website user-friendly and exciting so that people really want to go back to it!  Sorry that the content has been a little scarce.  I thought that maybe you would start making up entries, just guessing what we may be doing, since you never hear from us, and adding these fake logs to the web, to spice things up.  An example of this faux entry:  "Kyle and the girls have made up their own style of Tahitian dancing, and are trying to sell it to the local resorts.  Doug, always game, has become the first non-Tahitian to join the competitive surf team after just a few hours of surfing lessons!  HANGING TEN ON CORAL-DUDE!!"

 

I love you all--kiss Lucy and Ferny for me, Kyle

 

PS--about that trip to meet us--how about some sort of hiking, camping, trekking experience together in NZ?--for two weeks or so in maybe February?  We're trying to loosely figure out when we want the boat hauled and when we want to get ready to put her back in the water.  We thought of buying (and later selling) a caravan/camper "land yacht" for the few months that we'll be in NZ--November to at least April.  We particularly think that the South Island would be a great place to explore--or do our own "Lord of the Rings" hiking/camping tour.  Let us know how that sounds to you.  We'd love to have an adventure together, like the old days of winter camping or skiing or walking in France.  Speaking of France, the French baguettes are incredible here!

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Friday, September 17, 2004 5:02 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2230 local time Thursday, September 16, 2004 (0830 GMT 09/16/04); S 16 deg 32.33' / W 152 deg 17.30', 5 NM SW of Maupiti Island, Society Islands, French Polynesia.  Heading: 270 deg T; Speed: 4.5 kts.  Under sail on port tack; wind ESE approx 12 kts.

 

At dusk tonight Eliza and Abigail lowered the now-tattered French Polynesia (or "Tahiti Nui") courtesy flag we have flown at Estrela's starboard spreader for three months.  Bora Bora still glows faintly 30 miles aft of us, its energetic nightlife reflecting off the clouds encircling its staggeringly dramatic mountains.  We didn't stop there, content to take pictures as we passed a few miles south of the breakers marking the edge of its lagoon.  A glimpse through binoculars of the storied Bora Bora Club Med satisfied our yearning for pampered tropical luxury.  Ahead lies a 1300 to 1400 NM passage to reach the Vav'au Islands of the Kingdom of Tonga.  We would love to have had another three months to explore French Polynesia, especially the Tuamotus, where we found wild and unspoiled underwater worlds and made and renewed some wonderful friendships.

 

The clock is ticking for us now.  We aim to sail to New Zealand during the historically optimal weather window just before the South Pacific cyclone season and after the winter gales, approximately the last week in October and first two weeks in November.  We plan to depart from either Tonga or Fiji.  This passage from the Society Islands to Tonga should take anywhere from 12 to 18 days, depending on weather and on how much we are willing to run the engine when winds are light or adverse.  We have decided not to stop in the Cook Islands or Samoa (Western or US) en route to Tonga, opting to "bank" a few weeks in case we have an unusually slow trip to Tonga, experience a breakdown that requires repairs before we can sail to NZ, or decide to sail on from Tonga to Fiji before turning left and heading for NZ.  And there is always the possibility we will have an uneventful and reasonably quick passage to Tonga, giving us a chance to relax and slowly explore the intricate waters, myriad anchorages and new (to us) culture of Tonga.

 

One extra challenge we now face is the need for serious water conservation and collection.  Our PUR 80 reverse osmosis watermaker had worked flawlessly, almost magically, until our passage from the Tuamotus to Tahiti, when it began to make salty tasting water.  Dismantling it revealed worn "O" rings and that one of the two filter membranes is probably contaminated by some oily substance.  We lack spares to correct either problem.  So we can continue making water adequate for washing and certain galley uses, but not for drinking.  We began this passage today with 70 gallons of fresh water in our two internal tanks and 20 more in four five-gallon jerry jugs lashed on the deck.  We also have three four-gallon pails sitting on deck full of fresh water -- it's amazing how much remains in the buckets, even when heeling.  Eliza and Abigail have become conscientious water conservers and continually come up with good new ideas for saving bits of water throughout the day.

 

We apologize for having gone so long without regular log entries for the naturofm.com/Estrela website.  Kyle and I have struggled during our stay in French Polynesia with the tension between living and writing about living.  The last month and a half has been intensely full for all four of us and we have not made much time for reflection and to write about our experiences.  As we begin a two month period where we'll be on passage more than half the time we anticipate writing more and communicating more regularly with family and friends at home.  We love getting your emails and promise to write back.  Kyle and I really enjoy working at the computer during our night watches, as long as it's not too bouncy.

 

-- Doug

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2004 3:04 PM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0400 local time Tuesday, September 21, 2004 (1400 GMT 09/21/04); S 14 deg 07' / W 157 deg 47'; approx 970 NM ENE of Neiafu, Vav'au Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  Heading: 265 deg T; Speed: 3.6 kts.  Under sail (wing and wing) on port tack; wind E to ESE approx 12 to 16 kts.

 

Yesterday was a big day for the homeschool Estrela.  Time to take stock of this past school year and prepare for the next one.  So the boat's interior became one huge book pile, as the girls and I pulled books out of every cabinet and hidden stowage place, like the way way back of the hanging aka "shove" locker.  Abigail has completed her kindergarten work and Eliza is making a last huge push to finish a math book, "Math 4 Today", and a reading comprehension book, "Worldly Wise", and prepare for a history final on the ancients--Egypt, Greece, and Rome.  She's finishing 4th grade.  We plan to have a big graduation bash in Tonga--which basically means sing "Pomp and Circumstance" and eat lots of cake.  Marking transitions in schooling is so important, and homeschoolers have to make a big effort to do so.  Otherwise, school and home get so blurred together, one would never know what grade they were in or when school stops and starts.  We school 6 days a week on Estrela, taking Sunday as our "sabbath" from school.  We take vacation days, "professional development days" (that's when teacher/Mom needs a break!), and boat days (that's when provisioning chores and work on the boat take precedence over school, though usually Doug or I can turn that into "homeschool moments", you know, home economics, applied mathematics and shop classes).  Of course,  snorkeling on coral reefs, fishing and cleaning fish, shell collecting, and studying weather faxes are all grist for science class, and reading out loud is....reading out loud!

 

Our life is our schooling and the world is our classroom.  And I think that Doug and I are learning just as much as, if not more than, the girls.

 

-- Kyle (from the bridge, on dawn watch)

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2004 1:46 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0330 local time Wednesday, September 22, 2004 (1330 GMT 09/22/04); S 14 deg 06' / W 159 deg 33'; approx 872 NM ENE of Neiafu, Vav'au Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  Heading: 270 deg T; Speed: 4.6 kts.  Under sail (wing and wing) on port tack; wind E to ESE approx 13 to 21 kts.

 

We have been so thankful for this settled weather and great sailing conditions.  The wind is pushing us from behind and the seas are not too "lumpy"--that's sailor speak for a bumpy, uncomfortable ride.  It's very pleasant to not have books, ingredients, toys, etc. fly around the cabin.  We can enjoy the passage, not just survive it.  Doug and I don't have to be at the tiller constantly, tummies and nerves are calm, and we have more energy for homeschooling, talking, reading aloud and playing cards--crazy eights and hearts, the favorites.  We are all the more grateful for this peace during this passage because we are a grieving boat.  My sharp-as-a-tack grandmother Dorothy Holt (my Nana and the girls' Gigi), age 95, died this past Friday, Sept. 17th, day 2 of our passage.  When we left Tahaa, we knew that she would probably die before we got to Tonga.  And she did.

 

We were all ready to leave French Polynesia except for a planned quick dinghy ride to shore to top off water and diesel and get several baguettes.  But that night we received an email from my dad with our first news that Gigi was gravely ill and had chosen to enter the hospice program at the local hospital.  Thankfully, we hadn't yet left land, we quickly found a pay phone by the fuel dock and we still had time on our Fr. Polynesia phone card.  Then Doug miraculously remembered the U.S. country code (we hadn't phoned home since Panama) and both my parents were at home.  It was a tearful, comforting call, giving all of us, and me especially, the strength to continue on.  I learned that Gigi, an adventurous world traveler herself, had asked my Dad (her only child) to reassure us that she didn't wanted us to stop on her account. 

 

And so we departed the next morning with heavy hearts, and plans for frequent email exchanges with my parents.  The calm sailing conditions have allowed us to focus on each other, Gigi and family back home.  We have spent many hours reminiscing about Gigi, stories of her incredible life and our memories of her.  She's very much alive in our hearts. 

 

We will miss the funeral, which is set for Sept. 28th.  It's hard, very hard to be so far away.  But this was a possibility we and Gigi had talked frankly about in the months before we left Connecticut.  We are just very thankful for our computer and email system which has kept us as close as one could possibly be here in the middle of the ocean. 

 

And lying in the cockpit during my dawn watch, I'm surrounded by the most awe inspiring night sky.  Stars really do twinkle.  Heaven is just an arm's reach away.  I feel closer than ever to my grandmother, knowing that she's right there in her final place of rest.

 

--Kyle  

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Monday, September 27, 2004 3:51 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

2100 local time Sunday, September 26, 2004 (0700 GMT 09/27/04); S 15 deg 17' / W 167 deg 12'; approx 435 NM ENE of Neiafu, Vava'u Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  Heading: 244 deg T; Speed: 4.1 kts.  Motorsailing @ 1400 RPM with just staysail; wind NE approx 5 kts.

 

We've had some interesting wildlife moments on this passage.  Our first was a close encounter of the wet, avian kind.  It was a lovely evening on September 16th, our first night at sea again.  I was down below in the galley preparing dinner.  The rest of the crew were in the cockpit watching the sun set.  All of a sudden I heard shrieks of surprise.  My first reaction was that someone had fallen overboard, but when I popped my head up I counted all three humans.  "What happened?", I said with relief.  "Mom, a Booby landed in the cockpit right next to Abigail.  The bird was more scared than Abby!"  But before I could even utter an "Oh my," the brown Booby circled us again and this time hit his mark perfectly, Doug's cap-less head.  It's pretty amazing to watch a big sea bird splat on top of your husband's head!  Doug swatted.  We shrieked.  Mr. Booby escaped.  Of course our first question to Doug was, "So, what did it feel like?"  "Wet, and his feet made a slapping sound."  And the bird kept circling.  Was he tired?  It looked more exhausting trying to land on Estrela than just soaring on the air currents.   "Booby alert.  Booby alert."  We all ducked for cover.  This time he landed successfully on the boom (we were motoring so the boom was resting on its "gallows" down the center of the cockpit--this was before the trades winds kicked in.) He sat perched above us for several minutes.  We stared at each other, the bird and the crew, sizing each other up.  Silence.  And then he took off.  That was it?  Oh no.  "Booby alert.  Booby alert."  We manned out stations, this time I had a camera in hand.  Mr. Booby circled and circled and circled.  Finally the approach must have looked good.  He lowered his landing gear and plopped, another successful landing on Estrela's boom.  By now, Abigail, our junior vet, was already planning the care and feeding of our new feathered crew.  Doug, head still wet and salty, was concerned with the fowl's impending fouling.  Eliza, still stunned, sat under the cover of the dodger, bracing herself for his next move.  And I just wanted a picture.  The flash went off and Mr. Booby didn't move.  Hmmm.  Maybe he's used to having his picture taken.  The camera flashed again and again and finally Mr. Booby got the picture, and flew away.  This time for good.  It was just another exciting night aboard Estrela.   For more info about boobies, check out "Eliza's Galapagos Journal" on this website.

 

 

Our next wildlife adventure occurred three days ago.  Again, it was approaching sunset and we were all in the cockpit looking at the huge rainbow accompanying a very large squall cell chasing us from behind.  Time to batten down the hatches.  As the girls and I were going down below to close portholes we heard Doug cry, "Fish!  There's a fish at the end of the line!"  We hopped up and saw that there was a big fish struggling in the water right underneath the end of the rainbow, our pot of gold.  "All right crew, there is a  squall coming. We don't have much sunlight left and we have to land a big fish.   Time for teamwork.  Eiza, get the gaff. Kyle, get my gloves and the rubbing alcohol.  Abigail, close the portholes.  I've got the line.  Let's go!"  Like a well-trained military squad we jumped to action.  As the fish got closer to the boat, its beautifully iridescent coloring of blues, yellows, and greens could be seen.  It was a mahi-mahi, otherwise known as a dorado. These fish are just absolutely gorgeous.  In fact, the first time I saw one, on passage from Galapagos to the Gambiers, I wouldn't let Doug put out a line.  "There's no way you're going to kill one of these creatures.  They belong in an aquarium, not on my plate."  Of course this small school of doradoes had to tease Doug by swimming alongside the boat for an hour.  But times have changed.  I'm a real cruiser now, got all those hunter juices flowing.  Time to catch a fish!  Doug leaned over the boat and with one quick stroke of the gaff, brought the huge beauty into the cockpit.  Before a brawl could break out, we covered its face with a towel and poured rubbing alcohol down its throat.  The fight was over.  Victorious, the girls helped Doug string it up by the tail off the boom on the starboard side, (we were on port tack) and watched like forensic scientists as Doug did an autopsy, I mean, cleaned the fish.  Eliza drew the fish to scale and took down measurements, while Abigail inspected the contents of the stomach.  "Mud!" she reported.  Thankfully the squall never hit.  And as the last rays of sun disappeared under the horizon, Doug donned a headlamp to finish the filleting process.  "We're having fish tonight!  And the next night .  . and the next . . . and the next."

 

-- Kyle

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 9:04 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0000 local time Friday, October 1, 2004 (1100 GMT 10/01/04); S 17 deg 35' / W 172 deg 23'; approx 115 NM ENE of Neiafu, Vava'u Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  Day 15 of Estrela's passage from French Polynesia to Tonga.  Heading: 239 deg T; Speed: 3.3 kts.  Under sail on port tack with staysail, 2/3 reefed genoa and double-reefed main.  Wind SSE (on the beam) at approx 14 to 19 kts and diminishing; seas rough but diminishing.

 

Not to whine or anything . . . but the last three days have brought us all the things we had managed to avoid during the idyllic sailing conditions of the preceding 10 days, namely, . . . a day of no wind with a lot of motoring, then torrential rain and too much wind from the wrong direction -- on the nose for much of the time -- and an awkward, often violent motion, especially below.  These conditions have given us 24 hour runs of only 75, 79, 84 and 76 nautical miles the last four days, compared with 96, 105, 114 and 108 NM for days five through eight.  In just the last couple hours, however, it is feeling as though the wind and seas are moderating to the point we will be able to sail our course to Vava'u, raise more sail and pick up speed to around 4+ knots.  The sky remains thickly overcast, though, and the motion will stay choppy until the seas we are driving into diminish and/or the wind direction veers more to the ESE or E and the wind waves have time to change direction too. 

 

There are signs we are nearing Tonga, though!  Seabirds and flying fish seem more abundant and every once in a while the air smells earthy.  We have rescued two hapless flying fish who crash-landed aboard Estrela the last two nights.  This morning on the SSB radio net (dubbed the "Polly Needs Ya Net") Kyle heard an amusing account from another sailboat who claimed to have found 30 dead flying fish on deck at dawn.  Having just heard the wild racket even one startled flying fish generates trapped on deck outside a porthole or in the well of the cockpit, however, it is hard to imagine the crew of a boat keeping a prudent 24 hour watch being unaware until the next morning that a school of 30 flying fish has decided to commit mass suicide on deck. 

 

An historical note . . . central Tonga, just south of Vava'u where we're first headed, was the location of the actual mutiny on the Bounty.  It was here that Fletcher Christian and his disgruntled compatriots forced Captain Bligh and his remaining loyal crew members into an open long boat with virtually no supplies or equipment.  Through a Shackleton-esque tour de force of caution, discipline and navigational genius Bligh guided this unseaworthy vessel more than 3,000 miles to Timor, saving the lives of all but one of the mutinied men.  Amazingly, their fear of attack by the native inhabitants of Tonga, Fiji and the other island groups they would sail through led Bligh to decide it was riskier to stop at any of these islands in search of food and water than to sail non-stop to Timor with only the prospect of catching rainwater to drink and seabirds and fish to eat.

 

-- Doug

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2004 2:46 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0800 local time Sunday, October 10, 2004 (1900 GMT 10/09/04); S 18 deg 39.321' / W 173 deg 59.050'; Neiafu Harbor, Vava'u Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  At a mooring.  Wind SE approx 5 to 10 kts, sky: 100% overcast; air temp: 78 deg F; water temp: 77 deg F.

 

We arrived here in Neiafu Harbor one week ago this afternoon.  In a couple hours we'll leave to seek an anchorage where we can snorkel, play on a beach, find shells and homeschool (including administering part two of Eliza's ancient history exam).  We have had our fill of town and are ready for some quiet.  Neiafu is a cruiser Mecca, attracting many of the sailboats who left Panama or the west coast of North America this past spring who are now preparing for the great leap to New Zealand to avoid the South Pacific cyclone season.  This is also the furthest destination north and east for Kiwi sailboats who have ventured into the tropics for their winter cruising season.  As a result this is a crowded and noisy cruiser scene, a little startling for us after having found less traveled anchorages most of our way through French Polynesia. 

 

It has been wonderful, though, to spend time here with some of the many friends we've made over the last few months.  An extraordinary comraderie grows among the members of the loose network of boats from all over the world who leapfrog each other along the so-called "coconut milk run" from Panama or the west coast of North America, through the Galapagos and polynesia and on to New Zealand each winter cruising season.  Many of us never or rarely even meet in person, our relationships forged over SSB radio.  Here in Neiafu we've shared meals or enjoyed warm reunions with sailing friends from Norway, the UK, Germany, South Africa, Canada, Netherlands Antilles, New Zealand and the US.

 

Even here in the "big city" however (second largest in the country, though actually little more than a village), Tonga has been a happy surprise to us, and seems mostly oblivious to the cruiser world.  Men, women and children dress traditionally and observe a fairly steady daily and weekly rhythm of life.  We enjoyed a "Tongan feast" one night, a very simple meal shared sitting on the floor of a poor family's home, concluded with ceremonial drinking of kava from the family's communal wooden bowls.  Kava is made from the root of a pepper plant.  It's a mild analgesic that briefly numbs the lips; excessive consumption can lead to scaly skin.  Tongans, especially men, gather regularly -- some nightly -- for ceremonial kava drinking.  It's an important part of the social fabric. 

 

After arriving in Neiafu we had anchored for two days across the harbor, flying the yellow quarantine flag and having no contact with shore or even other sailboats.  We just slept and cleaned Estrela.  Then we motored back to the town wharf to tie up for the involved process of clearing Tongan customs, immigration, quarantine and health regulations.  Three of four officials came aboard to look around and fill out forms, each accepting cookies and juice and taking their time.  They were friendly, but quite serious and dignified.  The health official enjoyed telling me about Tongan environmental rules and trends in marine environmental health.  On leaving he extended a vague invitation to join him as his guest some evening at his kava drinking club.  He said he'd see me around town.

 

Having refilled fuel and water tanks, washed five loads of laundry in real machines, changed the oil and the fuel and oil filters, thoroughly cleaned decks and gear, dried wet bunk cushions, and taken on some fresh food, we have done the basics.  Estrela is essentially ready to go to sea again.  It's been a big effort to stay focused on these "turn-around" chores after our long passage, and we're still pretty tired.  But it feels great.  We want to do this after every passage; sometimes we have been more diligent and efficient than other times.  It seems to take about a week of concerted effort. 

 

Now it's time to enjoy Tonga and our last weeks in the tropics before sailing back into the higher latitudes and leaving the tradewinds behind.  We'll return to Neiafu in 10 days or so to top off again and make a few additional preparations before departing for New Zealand.  Despite the idyllic setting, we and our other cruiser comrades feel a rising level of anxiety as we anticipate all that sailing to New Zealand entails.  The Americans and Canadians seem most inclined to worrying and to trying to think through and prepare for every possible contingency.  The Europeans and Aussies here, and even more so the Kiwis, are growing increasingly bemused at the anxiety exuding from their North American brethren.  The truth is that sailing from the tropics to New Zealand is in fact a big deal.  Every one of us should expect to encounter at least one and possibly two or three bona fide westerly gales, depending on boat speed, New Zealand destination and luck.  Watching the weather faxes is a little disconcerting.  The typical lows that cross New Zealand and pass eastward well to the south of us, bringing us diminished trades and, oh gosh, some overcast skies generate large areas of NW to SW winds from 25 to 40+ knots extending as much as 10 degrees of latitude north of New Zealand.  For New Englanders, think of a sleepy possom crossing I-95 at night; chances are pretty good of encountering a speeding semi before reaching the other side.

 

Kyle is working on a list of highlights of our last passage, which she'll post in our next log entry.

 

-- Doug 

 

PS -- What thrill we had yesterday afternoon finding an open-air "internet shack" in Neiafu where we could watch the Kerry/Bush debate live online!

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 1:27 AM

Subject: Estrela Log Entry

 

 

0730 local time Tuesday, October 12, 2004 (1830 GMT 10/11/04); S 18 deg 42' / W 174 deg 02'; Port Mourelle, Vava'u Group, Kingdom of Tonga.  At anchor; 35' depth.  Wind SE approx 10 to 15 kts, sky: 100% overcast; air temp: 75 deg F; water temp: 77 deg F.

 

It stopped raining early this morning after pouring, drizzling or misting for more than a day.  We caught six or seven gallons of drinking water!  We have a hole cut in the blue canvas sun shade over the cockpit.  A plastic fitting screws into the hole and a short piece of vinyl hose squeezes onto the fitting and runs to a bucket or jerry jug.  The whole rig takes only a couple of minutes to set up.  After the first few minutes of rain all the salt and any dust or grime has flushed through the system.  It's amazing how quickly we can catch precious drinking water with such a small (5' X 6') rain-catching surface.

 

Estrela's crew spent most of yesterday cozy below.  After a big, lazy birthday (Doug 48) breakfast of Norwegian pancakes and gifts of many beautiful shell treasures and my own pareu(!), Kyle and I read and Eliza and Abigail played in the forepeak, first creating another elaborate world with their mini-"American Girl" dolls and then plugging the DK CD-ROM "My First History Explorer" into the computer.  Curiosity and a pause in the rain led us to don wetsuits and load snorkel gear into the dinghy for an explore.  We found exciting underwater caves and chasms along the steep limestone drop-offs at the shore of the nearby jungle-covered island. 

 

Though the water was extraordinarily clear and the visibility great despite thick clouds and the late hour, the coral and fish life were disappointing.  Much of the coral appears to have died relatively recently.  The structures are there, many different varieties.  There are some healthy isolated coral formations or patches and some others that have the telltale bright white surface of bleached coral, indicating sickness or stress.  But most of the coral is just dead and in different stages of eroding, much of it covered by one kind of algae or another.  Having read in our guidebook rave reports about the snorkeling only a few years ago and having heard glowing first-hand accounts from experienced Tongan cruisers, we've looked forward to crystal clear water and spectacular, colorful coral "gardens" with lots and lots of fish here in the Vava'u islands.  Well we've found the clear water, but will keep searching for the healthy coral and plentiful fish.

 

Attached below, as promised, are Kyle's Tonga passage highlights.

 

-- Doug

 

 

      *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *     *

 

Highights of Estrela's 16-day passage from French Polynesia to Tonga 

(September 16 to October 3, 2004)

 

 

When we crossed the International Date Line, my Friday watch instantly became a Saturday watch.  Same time, next day.  Incredible.  The girls and I made up this riddle: Where am I when today is tomorrow, yesterday is Thursday, and tomorrow is Sunday?  The International Date Line!  If you look at an atlas you'll see the IDL jogs out of its 180 degree longitude to include Tonga.  That's why the tour books call Tonga, "the land where time begins".  We're almost there.  Only 14 NM to go!  I'm scanning the moonlit horizon with the binos for my "land ho" moment.

 

As this ocean passage (my favorite, so far) comes to an end, I'd like to share some highlights.

 

     SSB radio birthday party.  It's a BYOC event, that is, Bring Your Own Cake.  Jared on Alii Nui turned 10 at sea and he invited us to a party over the radio during our regularly scheduled afternoon chat.  Estrela was all a bustle as we made presents, cards and cake for the birthday.  The party was a great hit.  Jared squealed with delight as we sang "Happy Birthday" (the girls blew out the candles), unwrapped presents with Kyle as radio commentator ("and what is in this bag, wait, it won't come out, oh here it is...ooooooo it's a yellow doggie shaped eraser!!!), and read our Top Ten list entitled, "Favorite Things We Like To Do With Jared" (the number one answer was, "play squirrel warriors"), all over the radio.  We've put the presents away for safe keeping until we see Alii Nui in New Zealand, maybe in February.  They are sailing to Australia first.

 

     Wildlife encounters. The mahi-mahi and the booby (see previous log entries for details).  Breaching humpback whales greeted our arrival in Vava'u waters -- close enough to see the distinct patterns in tail flukes.  Almost more spectacular were the pilot whales, inches from Estrela's side, escorting us with their massive, sleek bodies and piercing, high-pitched voices.

 

     Homeschool.  The girls have been on fire.  It's incredible to see such enthusiasm and growth.  Abigail has accelerated in reading. She now has the confidence to sound out complicated words and sentences.  Now the classic book of Dick and Jane, purchased at the Vero Beach Book Center last December, is read with ease.  Doug, the newly hired middle school history teacher, has just written Eliza's history final on The Ancients.  Can you answer this question?  "In a paragraph describe and compare Sargon, Shamshi-Adad and Hammurabi as rulers.  Over what and whom did each rule and how did their approaches to leadership differ?  Which approach do you think was more successful and why?"

 

     Food.  Menu planning depends on boat motion, fresh fruit and vegetable rations, and chef's level of sleep deprivation.  We bought a simple yogurt maker in Tahiti (Instructions: Mix ingredients -- water, powdered milk, and three tablespoons of starter [yesterday's batch].  Pour mixture into twist top container.  Boil water and pour into special thermos.  Place yogurt container in thermos.  6 hours later, voila . . . delicious yogurt!)  We now have yogurt, granola and fresh or canned fruit for most breakfasts.  This is a healthy change from the fresh baguettes with butter and jam that became our breakfast staple in French Polynesia. (Okay, so baguettes aren't the most nutritious meal, but boy are they a treat!) I baked three batches (six loaves) of bread this passage plus Jared's SSB birthday cake.  Dinners have ranged from canned hot dogs (amazingly tasty), canned pork and beans and canned green beans -- a big motion night, to stir-fry with spam and canned mixed vegetables when we were really low on the fresh stuff, to lasagne -- chef was bright eyed and bushy tailed.  Two favorite meals were fried canned corn beef served with mashed potatoes and canned green beans and home-made refried beans with rice and canned corn, canned tomatoes, and chopped fresh cabbage.  Hot sauce on the side.  Come and get it!

 

     Dorothy.  What can I say about my grandmother?  When we left French Polynesia, she had just checked into a hospice program and by the time we arrived in Tonga, she had been buried.  It is difficult to put into words the profound feeling of experiencing the passage across life's dividing line on a passage across the sea.  We felt embraced by my grandmother's love, reaching us across the world and then down from Heaven. 

 

-- Kyle

 

Copyright © 2003-2009 Doug and Kyle Hopkins. All rights reserved.